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Individuality is the mainstream of this era, so many creative and artistic products become the focus. People pay more attention to things that stimulate emotions and express thoughts. Artistic lacquer spraying graffiti directly expresses inner voice, colorful and passionate. This technique retains the uniqueness and liveliness of handicrafts and becomes a key pattern craft in A/W 21/22. It is also used by Off-White and Christopher Kane. Alexander McQueen created a lacquer-sprayed dress on its S/S 1999 catwalk. Raf Simons once launched a lacquer spraying collection in A/W 2012 haute couture.
As the network becomes a key way for people to communicate and socialize, digital technologies in virtual reality are increasingly growing, and more dazzling electronic technologies and special effects become an important part of life. This is also a key expression form of street graffiti lacquer-spraying art. In A/W 21/22, it will be all-over used to garments, and lavish colors strengthen the virtual reality vibe.
Rich graffiti color blocks are all-over printed. Multiple colors give a strong visual impact and express inner feelings directly. It is ideal for dresses and jackets.
Ready cut shapes or patterns cover the panel, so as to leave the pattern we want after lacquer spraying. This craft works well for sweatshirts, dresses and T-shirts, bringing natural patterns.
How do we define female attitude in modern times? They are independent, brave and fearless. With women’s rising status, more and more women focus on self-affirmation and praise. They are brave to show the true self and fully display their own beauty, which is reflected by sexy craft details on the chest. Their free will, wild vitality and primitive temperament drive diverse designs on the chest.
Pleating releases more volume on the chest, or underwear structures are directly used to dresses or blouses, gradually abandoning cumbersome structures. Structures on the chest are underlined to display female own charm.
Lingerie look gets more prevalent in S/S 2022. The bra-style inner gradually replaces vest inner, or it is worn singly. Skimpier coverage reveals female independence and bravery to show themselves.
The blouse improved from bras is a key item influenced by new femininity. It is a key craft to use underwear structures to flatter the chest and make the chest more 3D, thus presenting female confident and elegant charm.
Hand-crocheting has a long history. It depicts the beauty of patterns and displays the warmth of handicrafts. Hand-crocheting makes the knitwear more layered and 3D. In A/W 21/22, hand-crocheting is more lavish and finer, presenting the charm of elegant and sophisticated women via daily clothing.
In A/W 21/22, exquisite lace appears. Hand-woven lace has been a daily fashion with the development of science and technology. Lace enhances the quality of knitwear. And the lace set is well-fitting, ideal to be the base-layer of overcoats.
Delicate sets work well for commute, leaving a harmonious and orderly impression. And the set can also be separated to pair with other items, quite flexible.
Hand-woven flowers are created by the combination of chain stitch, long stitch and short stitch. Complicated crafts display the delicacy of hand-crocheting. In A/W 21/22, hand-crocheted flowers decorate the collar and cuffs, enhancing the 3D feel. With the development of technologies, machines can also create a hand-crocheting effect, greatly improving the production efficiency.
As consumers pursue the improvement of life quality, delicacy and elegance become important. Sustainable fashion drives the exploration of exquisite and durable details to be a mainstream. Traditional handicrafts become an important form of clothing details. Delicacy and craftsmanship return back, and weaving will mix with femininity to create fashionable items.
In addition to press-pleating, dense or sparse pleating, or the direction of cutting creates 3D textures, enhances the visual impact, and brings the aesthetics of crafts.
In A/W 21/22, quilted fabrics of puffa jackets get thinner, which is a key trend. With the upgrade of materials, statement-making quilting detail shows unique charm. Irregular artistic stitches echo the orderly geometric cutting, with mixed materials and color-blocking for a new visual feel.
Fringe is a common way to add details, making the simple style more casual. And fringes get thinner and thinner, which is an evident trend and guides the direction of women’s leather and fur.
Every season, designers will splice different fabrics with novel designs to bring different visual effects and hand feelings. Compared with spliced structures, A/W 20/21 pays more attention to fabrics. Retro and luxurious velvet and corduroy make a contrast with sportswear fabrics or knitted fabrics. Fleece will be expressed by new fabrics. Splicing different materials adopts a wider range of fabrics, like denim, suede, wool and woven shirts.
With the return of the retro style, rough corduroy and shining velvet come back. They are spliced with other materials to weaken the retro feel. CROQUIS and Z Zegna splice materials like knitted sweatshirt fabric or water-proof sportswear fabric on plackets and sleeves to bring a luxurious touch and vision.
Splicing denim with check shirt brings a visual illusion. E.Tautz splices denim and cotton to add denim strips to the clothing, bringing a stripe-like effect. Greg Lauren deconstructs the splicing of different materials, and MINEDENIM splices casual trousers with denim waistband, quite statement-making.
The suit is synonymous with gentleman, elegance and taste. As fastidious styles become public focus, detail design is also noticed. The creative lining meets business men’s demands to cater to the young market. The finely made facing and lining make the suit superior. The functional inside pocket makes the lining more functional. The color-blocked pipping, panel and beaded edge are statement-making. Exquisite jacquard in the lining breaks the monotony and becomes the non-negligible detail in S/S 2021.
The most direct function of facing is to support the pocket and bear the weight of items in the pocket. Currently, there are various facing designs, with straight and arc facing dominant. The wide and narrow facing is fun. Panels and prick stitch are color-blocked, displaying the combination of modernity and convention. The overlocking of Zara starts from a brand-new perspective.
The half-lined suit is lightweight, breathable and crisp, suitable for spring and summer. The lining is mainly decorated by similar colors. There are various lining designs, such as the lining from hemline to sleeves, one fourth or three fourths half-lining in the back. Color-blocked lining is also prominent in recent seasons and will become an important design element in the next season. Leopard print, ombre and animal embroidery can also be used as new design points to open the young market of business leisure suits.
As knitwear gets more ready-to-wear and consumers increasingly pursue high-quality clothing, traditional embroidery gains more attention. In A/W 21/22, embroidery pays more attention to the color contrast with the knitwear body, different combined elements, the combination with other crafts and handmade embroidery effect, bringing a simple yet chic visual feeling.
Color-blocked letters, as well as integrating floral and stripe into letters are recommended. Machine embroidery can well control the pattern effect, displaying the combined multiple elements.
Fine hand-embroidery enriches the expression forms. Color-blocking on placement is exquisite. Hot florals as main patterns are mostly applied to the neckline, hemline and cuffs, making a sharp contrast with the knitwear body.
Emphasizing edges is a key design of knitwear. When yarns are turned into hand-made overlocking, color-blocking, asymmetric design and silhouette are emphasized. The rough visual impact displays the aesthetics of handicraft.
Craft and detail are of great importance in A/W 20/21. Compared with clothing silhouette, more designers convey their ingenious thoughts to cautious consumers through craft changes and creative details. Influenced by current trends, the market is more favorable to bold, eye-catching, individual, simple and versatile craft and detail. Rubbing, discharge print, digital all-over print, and combined crafts of offset print gradually enter into the public view.
Rubbing has a long history in China. It is a hand-made reproduction of a carved or stone-cut surface by covering the surface tightly with a piece of paper and rubbing in black or colored material. Now, a Berlin company, Raubdruckerin has done something creative. In more than 20 cities, they put dyestuff on manhole covers, fences and the rest public facilities, then directly cover them with clothes and even backpacks. The idea of printing the manhole covers on T-shirts came from Emma France Raff. A decade ago, as she traveled around the world, she discovered manhole covers were like unique business cards handed out by cities, which triggered her desire to leave the mark as a memorial.
Discharge print is breathable, visible but impalpable. But it can only be printed on pure cotton fabrics dyed by polymer reactive dyes which can be costly, rather than on light-colored fabrics (Watermark can be used as a substitution).
Variegated blurred patterns sweep catwalks for S/S 2019, and become hot currently. Each item has blurred color blocks, with a simple silhouette to be unique, and add commercial value to shirts and hooded sweatshirts in A/W 20/21. Illusive looks and blurred elements will be softer in A/W 20/21, fit for avant-garde young consumers. Besides, Alexander McQueen and Palm Angels use blurred patterns boldly.
Drawing inspiration from adults’ wear, kids’ knitwear in A/W 21/22 tends to use individual and fashionable crafts. Illustration-like Jacquard, tapes, tassels and colorful heavy-gauge work with placement destruction and voluminous cables to bring a direct fashionable visual effect.
Jacquard plays an important role in knitwear. Artistic hand-drawn patterns and cartoon images blend with 3D decorations or applique, quite popular.
Fun design and crossed string break the monotony of the solid knitwear. Orderly pointelle and concave-convex texture bring a layered sense to the style, with knot to be playful and eye-catching.
The minimalist aesthetics always occupies a certain space in the fashion world. This season women’s knitwear emphasize the appearance change and transfer stitches to create 3D sleeves. The appropriate space is free and easy for the body. Smooth lines are in line with human curves. Subtle changes of details display the fun of simplicity.
The one-piece sewing is the main expression of designs on sleeves. Buttons, long straps and contrasting overlocking create soft and natural sleeves. The simple and flowing visual effect is the direction of the new season.
The draping sleeves have layered crinkles. Compared with disorderly gatherings in previous seasons, the draping sleeves are more regular, with tensile stitch textures to leave some space for the arm.