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Inspiration drawn from the twisted fantasy and dark gothic romance. The transparent lace with soft mesh can create a rich 3D feeling through additional romantic ruffles and overlapped hem. The thinner waist can better accentuate the elegant romance of dress.
Gothic romantic dress builds a charming body curve. And the waist string raises the waist line, lengthens the visual proportion and underlines the wasited effect. The original printed and embroidered fabric are applied to create RICK RHE’s unique clothes. And the flexible and elegant flying sleeves with natural flower patterns inject more highlights into the item.
Lace fabric is the main trend of S/S 2021 dresses. The delicate watersoluable lace has soft gloss and elegant patterns. The stringy selvedge and ruffle details underline the exquisite tonality.
Stylish puff sleeves still appear in this season. The stiff tweed fabric and exquisite jacquard tassels present both power and grace through different textures and colors.
To the fashion industry, 2021 is a year with both challenges and new opportunities. During the process of digitalization and intellectualization, the coronavirus epidemic actually becomes the catalyst of industry revolution which speeds up the development of trend. Consumers’ behaviour has changed, and their requirements are continuously updating. And the unprecedent changes rapidly become the new normality. In 2021, digital consumption will keep dominating and growing. And we should grasp this key opportunity to help enterprises to have insight into requirement changes and to strengthen their relationship with consumers.
In the past few years, China’s rapidly growing economic strength, consumption culture and population structure is leading to the eastward gravity of global fashion industry. China has been the first country to hit the plateau in this post-epidemic era, consumers are keeping desensitizing to the epidemic fluctuation. And the whole consumption trend and confidence index start to get better in the third quarter. The expense of Chinese consumers is continuously rising, and because of the expansion of middle class, China still has a large contribution space to the fashion industry.
Embrace Gen Z
Along with the quietly changing global population structure, the young Gen Z has been the focused crowd in this new era. Every aspect of the society is keeping up with the growth of Gen Z, so the commercial opportunities are emerging around these young people. As being aborigines of the digital networks, the life styles of Gen Z cause qualitative changes because of the technological revolution. They have a more independent character, pay more attention to their life experiences and own better understanding of searching for the best value and service. There are 260 million of Gen Z in China. Although half of them are students, their contribution to fashion consumption is in a yearly 3.5%-4.5% growth for the better family economic foundation.
Based on the era background of digital marketing, we need to take advantage of the social and sharing Gen Z to create a trend, and let the public follow this trend. The cultural circle of hobbies and their pursuit of diversity and individuality can be the cutting point of design. Those entry luxury niche brands, which have stories, craftsmanship, texture and also recognition, might be their future consumption trend.
Focus on Sustainability
The coronavirus epidemic improves consumers’ consciousness of health, environment and social responsibility. More and more consumers would have moral anxiety after the consumption, they are afraid of causing negative effect to the environment and society, then their guilty and shame would emerge. According to the samples of R.I.S.E sustainable fashion lab this year, including 2251 consumers and 20 brands, 84% of consumers have a high cognition of environmental sustainability, and 90% of these high-cognitive people express that the producers of fashion industry should make the environmental influence public during the producing process, and they are willing to learn the contribution which fashion industry has made in social responsibility.
The expansion of sustainable market needs the mutual support and promotion between consumers and producers. On one hand, we need to guide consumers to pay for the sustainability. And on the other hand, innovative designs can increase and popularize sustainable products. Besides, improving the recycling rate is the main direction of new commercial mode, and also the key direction of brands, designers and enterprises. Brands all over the world have launched their eco-friendly series products, such as the H&M Conscious Exclusive series, and Reclothing Bank’s “Basic” series, “Ready To Wear” series and “Haute Couture” series.
New Luxury Generation
The global luxury market is damaged by the epidemic in 2020. However, China has been the first to revive, about a 20%-30% growth in 2020. And China will soon occupy half of the global volume in luxury consumption. The younger consuming trend is obvious in the current stage, about 90% of consumers are likely to accept local luxuries, and the new luxury generation among 18-35 years old will contribute a 69% improvement in the coming future. With the all-over penetration of mobile internet, Chinese users are experiencing changes among information channels, content carrying mode and shopping locations. The whole channels of luxuries have been initially emerged.
The epidemic rebuilt users’ shopping habit in a rising trend. Since offline consumption is the main channel of luxury brands, they need to speed up their cooperation with online retailers and social medias. The combined online and offline marketing can create an immersive artistic interaction, and the application of films and pop-up stores can lively spread the brand value and break the border. The localized design better fits the younger consumers. Dior Men 2021 Autumn Series held the first online show in Beijing. Kim Jones and Kenny Scharf perfectly integrated graffiti Chinese elements into this season’s new products.
MAXXIJ released its new theme, ESCAPIST. Designers put emphasis on freedom. They try to get rid of the real fixed frames and keep moving forward in this adventure. Experimental design and creative element collocation create a stylish beauty that go beyond the conventional rules. MAXXIJ still chose low-saturation RGB to match up with black&white.
Feminine textures as water-soluble lace, stringy selvedge and gauze are widely applied on this season’s designs. The recreation of traditional styles brings new charm to classics and injects mystery.
Classic splicing design also appears in this season. No matter patches or textures splicing presents good expression.
Designers also put in tassel elements. Tasseled hats, vests and jackets swings with models’ movement, showing dynamism.
Practicality is the direction of S/S 2021 trunk shows. Dresses and trousers occupy the largest part, but trousers decline a little. The new season focuses more on the development and selection of tops. Details center on romantic spliced lace and silhouette changes. The attention is paid to cutting, spliced elements and detail crafts.
It is one of the hottest items in the new season. Silhouette cutting is key. Knitted fabrics and knitwear are main fabrics. Thus woven fabrics can be tried. Deconstruction and splicing create lavish layers.
Catering to the popularity of minimalism, collarless design is employed to highlight a layered match effect. 3D press-pleating and cutout embroidery make a mock-neck effect and add delicate details to items.
The dress is a key category this season, and the graceful shirt dress is prominent. Below-the-knee length, adjustable strings and refined fabrics characterize the shirt dress in the new season.
The four major fashion weeks are held both online and offline. Generally speaking, S/S 2021 knits move into comfortable, minimalist and eco-friendly home style. Soft and durable knitted fabrics work with classic basic silhouettes to promote the knitted loungewear. Soft fabrics and layered match become the first priority among priorities. It has been a key trend to use trans-seasonal neutral light colors to create versatile knits fit for both lounge and streets, tapping into value-inspired consumers. And in S/S 2021, knitted fabrics focus on creating simple, wearable, trans-seasonal and multi-scene knits.
According to comprehensive statistics of S/S 2021 womenswear catwalks, we can find this season knitted womenwear develops towards practicality. Driven by comfort and tactility, soft versatile cotton T-shirt fabric, practical loop pile, flexible knit, and mesh fabrics emerge in casual and practical styles, becoming key fabrics in S/S 2021 fashion weeks. They co-create funky fashion items that can be worn as outerwear and inner.
On S/S 2021 catwalks, cotton single jersey remains key this season. Basic tones team up with shoulder pads, straight shape and placement deconstruction, to turn organic cotton, bamboo fibers, lyocell fibers and functional eco-friendly jersey with nanofibers into comfortable, versatile women’s T-shirts, quite noteworthy.
Loop pile, as a perennial fabric for sweatshirts, teams up with statement-making designs to deliver a minimalist feel. Natural and light tones are dominant, and the surface is fine and smooth. Combed cotton or cotton blend is mixed to elevate the quality and exude a casual feel.
Consumers and investors are increasingly concerned about environmental issues. From alternative raw materials to which categories are growing faster, Luca Solca studied four issues facing the luxury goods industry.
Geneva, Switzerland-Consumers and investors are increasingly concerned about the environment, and four related forces will reshape the luxury goods market. More importantly, as climate and population growth put greater pressure on our planet, these concerns may intensify over time.
Environmental consumers will increasingly ask themselves which products are the most environmentally friendly, and then buy these products. But this is not an easy question to answer. Under which conditions the environment is much eco-friendly? How much is the water consumption? How about the carbon dioxide emissions? How serious is the pollution? If the mining industry is more environmentally friendly, then hard luxury goods will be the best choice.
Think about this, watches and jewelry have been worn thousands of times before being replaced, and most fashions have been worn dozens of times at most. More importantly, the environmental footprint of maintaining hard luxury goods is negligible. In contrast, the washing and dry cleaning of ready-to-wear garments has created a very negative environmental impact throughout its life cycle, and this effect is as serious in its production process.
Even if we take into account the pollution factor (the CO2 emissions of the mining industry are 2-10 times that of the fashion and accessories manufacturing industry), for those hard luxury brands trying to reduce the impact, using recyclable precious metals may be a very wise move. For example, 71% of Pandora’s gold and silver comes from recycled materials, and the brand’s goal is to reach 100% by 2025.
Alternative raw materials
The consumers ‘concern about animal welfare and the link between animal products and the environment are continuing to rise. Almost all major luxury brands have begun to ban the use of animal fur, which was the pillar product of the luxury industry in the past. As the recent controversy over crocodile farming has shown, we expect that the use of rare leathers may have a similar ending. In December 2018, Chanel announced that it would no longer use rare leather and fur in its collection. Wherever Chanel goes, others will follow.
The problem with leather is the same: Synthetic leather is the choice of only a few brands today, mainly because leather is largely regarded as a by-product of meat production. But as people continue to reduce beef intake, cowhide substitutes will definitely become more and more important. Luxury companies must improve their usage of raw materials, especially when a specific raw material is at the core of their brand’s DNA. Prada’s move to recycle nylon is the best example of proactive management in this regard.
Try to resell, challenge the brand perception
Luxury and fashion products are opening up to a wider audience, and the secondary market is about to usher in major developments. Although environmental issues may be a factor that drives people’s increasing interest in “second-hand” products, the main factor is actually the decline in the price of iconic luxury products for consumers and the increase in retail traffic. Resale giants The RealReal, Vestiaire Collective and Chrono 24 are at the forefront of the “second-hand” revolution, followed by a long list of players available.
Luxury brands are slowly embracing this trend and have established similar special partnerships and initiatives with existing physical and digital retailers such as Selfridges and Farfetch. Just not very long ago, Gucci collaborated with The RealReal to launch an online store.
The demand for second-hand products is often concentrated on big brands, even more than the demand in the primary market. A special study pointed out that Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Chanel and Gucci accounted for most of the second-hand demand for handbags, while Rolex dominated the watch market. This may increase the popularity of products on the Internet and on the street, which also means that luxury giants must further increase their efforts to fight with the brand vulgarization.
Stricter ESG reporting
ESG (Environmental, Social and Corporate Governance) reporting is still in its Primary Stage, much like financial reporting before the introduction of stock market regulators. In the luxury goods industry, companies often emphasize indicators that make themselves look good, while only making limited disclosures in other areas. But driven by consumer and investor demand, this situation may change quickly.
The negative environmental impacts of the fashion and luxury goods industries mainly occur in their extended supply chains. Observing the company’s specific performance and comparing vertically integrated companies at different levels will yield meaningless results.
Even if we look at elements such as carbon emissions that have received much attention recently, we found that Richemont is one of the few companies that report emissions within the “Scope 3”, which means that it not only discloses the third-party suppliers’ Direct emissions and their indirect emissions are also disclosed. The other exception is Kering Group, which also provides more extensive information disclosure. We expect this to become standard practice in the future.
Fendi S/S 2021 show is held in Milan as scheduled. La Famiglia, Fendi S/S 2021 collection, is inspired by family, the designer’s childhood and the family life during pandemic. Silvia says, “Time spent with family – descendants who raised together in Rome – prompts quiet introspection in a window or garden to watch the world go by.” Looking out from the inside, looking out from the outside, shadows and reflections are projected throughout the series. She explains the memory and thinking about the childhood, family and life. As for the setting, traditional elements and home life are mixed. The flowing white curtain is ethereal. The wavy sofas on the runway are also draped in pure white cotton, echoing the white curtain. Recently, Fendi appoints Kim Jones as the artistic director who will be in charge of women’s haute couture, ready-to-wear and fur collections. Silvia Venturini Fendi continues the responsibility of accessories and menswear collections. But Kim Jones remains the artistic director of menswear. It’s said that the A/W 2021 collection will be the first ready-to-wear collection of Kim Jones in Fendi.
Whites are warm and peaceful, revealing this series longs for natural tones during self-healing in home life. The puffa jacket emphasizes the warm tactility of white.
Blues are pure visually. They are positive and healing, more appealing in this environment. This season blues are gentle and elegant.
This season formal wear is blended with leisure and ease. Bright red is passionate, bright and dynamic. It is estimated to be a key color for modern elegant clothes.
In Haining markets, splicing remains a hot craft and spliced materials get more developed. Compared with last season, spliced puffa jackets show a growing momentum. Besides, spliced denim, color-blocking, decorative splicing, and sheeny materials spliced with fur and leather dominate Haining markets. Futuristic sheeny materials cater to consumers’ demand for individuality, quite noteworthy.
In Haining markets, puffa jackets spliced with fur increase. Mixed materials highlight the rich quality of fabrics and weaken the heavy feel visually, both statement-making and daily.
Spliced denim frequently appears. It displays the aesthetics of asymmetry and stresses the material contrast. The fur is used as a detachable lining, eye-catching and functional.
Color-blocking takes on various forms in Haining markets, including overlapped color blocks, asymmetric layout, splicing the surface and lining, spliced blocks on front panels. Plush also makes a sheen contrast with low-pile fabric.
Founded in 1954, La Perla is one of the world’s top underwear, womenswear and swimwear manufacturers. La Perla underwear has a profound cultural connotation and artistic temperament and brings underwear fashion into youngsters’ world. It is known as the Rolls Royce in the underwear industry thanks to its noble style and long history. Its core essence is the top handicrafts, refined design links, integrating innovation and tradition, displaying Italian characteristics and international positioning and the high quality.
Data shows in recent one month most products use embroidery and lace as decorations and embroidery occupies a large share. Lace and embroidery cover four in the top 5 salable items, and show a growing momentum. The silk sleepwear ranks the first.
Crossed cutouts and vane embroidery are complicated, delicate and elegant. This design comes from Arabian weaving craft in the 13th century. Ada Masotti, the founder, was fascinated by the complicated knots at the first sight and then used these knots as decorative elements on intimates. That is how the barely-there sexiness of La Perla comes.
Layered embroidered gauze is breathable, revealing seduction in sweetness.
Seoul is the gathering place of young, vigorous and fashionable clothes. This report concludes women’s knitwear in S/S 2020 Korean wholesale markets and analyzes from details, crafts and patterns. Details (asymmetrical neckline and ruffled collar), crafts (cables and mixed materials) and patterns (fresh flowers and repetitive animals) work together to enhance the chic feel and display female charm.
Asymmetrical design is offbeat. Multicolored stripes decorate the neckline, creating a colorful and asymmetrical visual impact.
Layered ruffles display female elegance. In S/S 2020, gauze ruffles are soft, and bright-colored ruffles present the young vitality of summer clothing.
Cables have always been indispensable for knitwear. In S/S 2020, cables and the crisp silhouette are combined, or multiple crafts are mixed, strengthening the quality sense.