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The Korean designer Wooyoungmi is a female who is successful in the world of menswear, and her brand has already been a leader of the Korean fashion. The delicate and precise designs of Wooyoungmi hope to provide consumers with beautiful yet unconventional clothing. Just like the experience of art and culture, fashion can also jump out of the ordinary. In the A/W 21/22 collection, designer focuses on ‘Nature’, an unbroken natural condition. A series of outdoor elements express designer’s concern about nature and her awed heart of exploration.
Wooyoungmi enlarges the silhouette of clothing in this season. The widened shoulders of different items strengthen the masculine power and fit more occasions.
The matching of wool is essential for autumn and winter. Soft tactility is combined with delicate details to interpret basic woolen coat, which exudes the minimalism of modern gentlemen.
Denim item is the fashion element injected by Wooyoungmi. The decorations on the pockets, back and patterns of original denim and black denim are delicate and unconventional.
S/S 2022 Paris Menswear Fashion Week was held from June 22th to 28th. Most brands still released their latest collections online. However, the pure digital fashion show has gradually transitioned into a mixed form in the post-pandemic era. The offline events absolutely promoted the attraction of this fashion week. There were 72 brands involved in the show, including Louis Vuitton, DIOR MEN, LOEWE, Yohji Yamamoto, Hermès and Lemaire. Meanwhile, the classic French fashion house Courrèges(founded in 1961) will also return with the first collection of its new creative director Nicolas Di Felice. Dior’s cactus garden, Loewe’s disco look and the beaches of Rick Owens and Lanvin compose the hedonistic atmosphere of 2022 spring.
DIOR MEN — Inspired by the story of Christian Dior, Kim Jones invited the Houston rapper and musician Travis Scott to present this S/S 2022 menswear collection. Memories of Christian Dior’s childhood gardens are fused with the cactus-heavy Texan landscape to create a cross-cultural and cross-era fantastic runway, reviewing the artistic charm from the perspective of Dior. Hermès — Abandoning the traditional formal wear, designer injects a sense of leisure into light-hearted and lively designs to outline minimalist lines, which accentuates silhouette and exquisite tailoring. Bursts of color and graphic stitching are used more in this season, and mixed multiple materials enliven the whole collection. Louis Vuitton — The seventh collection of Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton was named after the classic song of The Winstons — Amen Break. This mysterious, isolated and weird atmosphere creates a dystopia future, especially reflecting the historical track of Black art and culture. Except for the performance of multiple African artists and hip-pop music, the clothing of this collection also presents the unique personality. Oriental belted element, draped dress hem and athleisure baseball sportswear present intensive visual impact. These bright and eye-catching colors bring us a fashion feast. Burberry — Burberry S/S 2022 menswear collection has released. The creative director Riccardo Tisci combined freedom with unity to jump out of the constraint. Sleeveless drop-shoulder jacket and deconstructed outerwear try to challenge the traditional principle. The flowing silhouette design is fused with abstract printed patterns and self-fabric straps. Classic brand elements are integrated into the theme to express royalty. Black halter-neck vest, outerwear and shorts are filled with the bravery of young warriors. Ami Alexandre Mattiussi — The S/S 2022 collection L’Échappée Belle brought by the founder and designer Alexandre Mattiussi leads us to a childlike and mysterious amusement park. The boys in this surreal space are interpreting a romantic night journey and their carefree attitude.
Lemaire S/S 2022 collection presents the peaceful, soft, lightweight and informal elegancy, which is daily and relaxing. The light fabrics in gentle saturated tones are integrated with the unique and personalized concept of multi-functional wardrobe to meet different situations and people. The artworks of African American artist Joseph Yoakum are printed on basic light silk and cotton textiles.
The designer of Jil Sander, Luke Meier took us back to the early 1990s through the Eclecticism and individualization of New York street style. Pale yellow, pale blue, mint, pink, lilac, pale orange, sage green, tobacco brown and hot cocoa are edge-cutting and sensitive. Inspired by every corner of street, improvisation allows all the details to be casual.
RIPNDIP comes from Los Angeles, California, U.S.A., founded by the skater Ryan O’Connor in 2009. Thus, its brand name RIP stands for skate a spot, N for and, and DIP for leave before the cops come, completely presenting its rebellious and humorous spirit. Its middle-finger cat Lord Nermal is deeply loved by the entertainment and fashion industry.
You may know nothing about RIPNDIP. But its representative IP, Lord Nermal, must be in a corner somewhere of your memory. Created by the New York illustrator Jayme Lemperle, this aggressive middle-finger cat caught the eyes of fashionistas and medias in no time.
With the popularity of tie-dye in recent years, RIPNDIP also applies different kinds of tie-dye in each season to express the brand culture and cool street style. The combination with letter and iconic IP makes the clothes more individualized.
Splicing is the must-have design technique of fashion brands. Contrastive colors are spliced to present intensive yet harmonious visual impact and the direct street culture.
HAMCUS released its first S/S collection in Paris in 2017 and got good feedback. HAMCUS has spread its beauty-appreciation, and its iconic brand style is known as the wasteland functional style in China. S/S 2021 collection follows the constant universe concept and presents the futuristic Sci-fi functional style of clothing.
3D pocket, insert pocket and zipped pocket on back part all increase the functionality of clothes.
Zippers allow clothes to have detachable and air-permeable functions, and also increases the charming structural design. The futuristic and personalized clothing well fits the brand’s world view.
Water-washed denim fabric has gentle color tone, which is suitable for whole body styling with details and newness. Air-permeable back design, large decorative pocket, detachable shoulder and splicing all provide denim with features.
The London designer Priya Ahluwalia won the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design, and became the fourth winner of this prize. This award commends Priya Ahluwalia’s sustainable purchasing and production practices, as well as her efforts to tell stories for cooperated communities and garment workers. Priya Ahluwalia founded her homonymic brand in 2018, and won the 2020 LVMH Prize and 2019 H&M Design Award.
Ahluwalia S/S 2021 collection takes inspiration from Priya Ahluwalia’s photos on newspaper, posters and in the 1960s protests in Nigeria. The palette of this whole collection is gentle, including mustard, forest green, beige and gray. Fluffy textiles are collaged together, and the patterns have various prints and geometric shapes.
Patterns are spliced with monochrome parts to present vitality and playfulness.
Simple geometric stitch appears in all the positions on the garment to separate colors and underline the durability of seams, fully presents its renewed property and quality. The patterns made by geometric stitches can improve the fashionable and avant-garde sense.
Influenced by this special epidemic, the futuristic commuting style rises. How to satisfy the dressing requirements of commuters when they come back to the office soon after the stayhome has stimulated some independent designers. Delicate futuristic commuting clothes make the traditional office wear modern, playful and practical. And it is also the creative design according to the features of contemporary commuters.
Millennials and Gen Z will occupy over 60% in the workplace in 2021. The diverse mixed group of Digital Natives with social responsibility and ambition become our search objects. According to the data, there will be 9.09 million college graduates in 2021, which is the highest number in the history. They are a generation of personality, not bound by the conventional working mode. They are more concerned about flexible working hours and changing workplaces in order to obtain a sense of happiness in life.
With the changes of global workplace and the existence of mobile office technique, commuters get rid of the traditional working system and the fixed workplace. Corona virus completely changes the conventional officing mode, and promotes the application of remote working. Diverse workplaces lead to the redefinition of the balance between life and work. Therefore, eco-friendly and healthy officing products are more popular among commuters.
The S/S 2021 collection of Staffonly is also its tenth season. Designers, Une Yea and Zhou Shimo focus on the reform and possibility of office space. Taking Staff as the character of this season, the brand tries to explore the huge but obscure group of salaried people. Staff pays attention to and deconstructs the most daily scenery, office, to provide a dressing guide for the flexible officing. We can not only find the fixed elements of office, but also the prints and details of vacation. These elements weave the Workation image of Staffonly and balance the comfortable dressing experience and functionality.
This is Alessandro Michele’s fifth year at Gucci. Michele leads us to rethink the definition of masculinity through the nonlinear time travel to the moment of birth. Gucci jumps out of traditional concepts and rewrites the powerful male chauvinism. Without social restraints or power limits, boys are wearing Mary Jane shoes, stockings and skirts in bright colors and a well-fitting silhouette. Gucci breaks male rules and neutral beauty, showing diversified sides of men.
Star Guests
Gucci’s ambassador Kim Jong In (Kai), artist Maurizio Cattelan, rapper Tyler the Creator, musician Mark Ronson and actor Earl Cave all wear different styles to the Gucci A/W 20/21 menswear show.
Retro Check
Check is still an important element in this season. Gucci uses feminine and neutral designs to bring retro charm. Retro check set and fresh blue check fabric bring a lethargic and free feel, and display the retro and preppy charm.
Retro Knitwear
Knitwear in this season is strongly retro. The hand-crocheted florals, loose cardigan and color-blocked knitwear all bring a romantic and retro feel to the simple silhouette.
ALMOSTBLACK identifies itself as a Post Japonism brand. Its design style integrates with the essence of traditional Japanese aesthetics, creating menswear with strong punk and street style. Founded by designers Shunta Nakajima and Masaki Kawase, the brand has been active in the fashion circle since 2015, providing space for the two designers to create classic works. The S/S 2020 series, with the theme of PLAY FORM, is inspired by Isamu Noguchi’s sculpture which has a technique of first drawing grid paper on curved parts, then carving stones into the shapes of the parts, and finally combining them together. This series includes printing patterns, embroidered jackets and functional clothing.
Ready-to-wear of this season is all in the loose silhouette, and combined with ingenious arc structures and eye-catching details to enrich the beauty of clothing structure, and to display the inspiration and creativity of designers. Tonal design or color-blocked design in placement could add an individual feel.
Large-scale abstract printing is the featured pattern in S/S 2020. Black and white tones are dominant, while small-scale abstract patterns are decorated by a few golden, red and bright blue decorations, adding a unique quality sense and visual enjoyment to the brand’s menswear.
The brand still keeps the street punk style. Metal rivets, round buttons and zipper are added to styles. Metal and black materials make a contrast to show the uniqueness and provide more space for creativity, displaying the balanced and harmonious beauty of design.
Black and white are the most classic tones. Designers interpret the diversification of shirts through the layered design on sleeves, ruffles on sleeves, double-colored neckline, bright-colored topstitch in the back and the segmentation of plackets, adding a unique individuality to the black and white shirts.
ALMOSTBLACK applies more diversified designs to trousers for S/S 2020. The one-piece trousers, functional trousers and tampered trousers are combined with tabs, pleats and zippers to provide space for men to show individuality and express selves.
EDI.Z LINGFENG’s A/W 19/20 collection, with the theme of Junction, is inspired by DESTINY which tells about strange story where humans and evil spirits live together. Designers apply strange colors and structures to express mutual trust and love in real life.
Catwalk
EDI.Z LINGFENG is a British menswear brand founded in 2017. The conflicts in daily life and subcultures supply inspiration to EDI.Z LINGFENG. The collection features the conflicts between different cultures, and aesthetic balance is the principle.
Letter Decorations
Supersize letters are striking visually. Letters echo the imaginable space and present a conflicted and strange aesthetic.
Material Reform
Splicing of different materials is favored by designers. Glossy coated fabrics are the most popular. Candy colors are refreshing and rebellious.
Reinvent Space
This time, EDI.Z LINGFENG invited Greater Dog Spatial Research Lab. Red Hu and Jin Xin of the lab helped design this show. The inspiration came from Huang Quan Guo Du meaning the place for the dead.
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