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HAMCUS released its first S/S collection in Paris in 2017 and got good feedback. HAMCUS has spread its beauty-appreciation, and its iconic brand style is known as the wasteland functional style in China. S/S 2021 collection follows the constant universe concept and presents the futuristic Sci-fi functional style of clothing.
3D pocket, insert pocket and zipped pocket on back part all increase the functionality of clothes.
Zippers allow clothes to have detachable and air-permeable functions, and also increases the charming structural design. The futuristic and personalized clothing well fits the brand’s world view.
Water-washed denim fabric has gentle color tone, which is suitable for whole body styling with details and newness. Air-permeable back design, large decorative pocket, detachable shoulder and splicing all provide denim with features.
The London designer Priya Ahluwalia won the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design, and became the fourth winner of this prize. This award commends Priya Ahluwalia’s sustainable purchasing and production practices, as well as her efforts to tell stories for cooperated communities and garment workers. Priya Ahluwalia founded her homonymic brand in 2018, and won the 2020 LVMH Prize and 2019 H&M Design Award.
Ahluwalia S/S 2021 collection takes inspiration from Priya Ahluwalia’s photos on newspaper, posters and in the 1960s protests in Nigeria. The palette of this whole collection is gentle, including mustard, forest green, beige and gray. Fluffy textiles are collaged together, and the patterns have various prints and geometric shapes.
Patterns are spliced with monochrome parts to present vitality and playfulness.
Simple geometric stitch appears in all the positions on the garment to separate colors and underline the durability of seams, fully presents its renewed property and quality. The patterns made by geometric stitches can improve the fashionable and avant-garde sense.
Influenced by this special epidemic, the futuristic commuting style rises. How to satisfy the dressing requirements of commuters when they come back to the office soon after the stayhome has stimulated some independent designers. Delicate futuristic commuting clothes make the traditional office wear modern, playful and practical. And it is also the creative design according to the features of contemporary commuters.
Millennials and Gen Z will occupy over 60% in the workplace in 2021. The diverse mixed group of Digital Natives with social responsibility and ambition become our search objects. According to the data, there will be 9.09 million college graduates in 2021, which is the highest number in the history. They are a generation of personality, not bound by the conventional working mode. They are more concerned about flexible working hours and changing workplaces in order to obtain a sense of happiness in life.
With the changes of global workplace and the existence of mobile office technique, commuters get rid of the traditional working system and the fixed workplace. Corona virus completely changes the conventional officing mode, and promotes the application of remote working. Diverse workplaces lead to the redefinition of the balance between life and work. Therefore, eco-friendly and healthy officing products are more popular among commuters.
The S/S 2021 collection of Staffonly is also its tenth season. Designers, Une Yea and Zhou Shimo focus on the reform and possibility of office space. Taking Staff as the character of this season, the brand tries to explore the huge but obscure group of salaried people. Staff pays attention to and deconstructs the most daily scenery, office, to provide a dressing guide for the flexible officing. We can not only find the fixed elements of office, but also the prints and details of vacation. These elements weave the Workation image of Staffonly and balance the comfortable dressing experience and functionality.
This is Alessandro Michele’s fifth year at Gucci. Michele leads us to rethink the definition of masculinity through the nonlinear time travel to the moment of birth. Gucci jumps out of traditional concepts and rewrites the powerful male chauvinism. Without social restraints or power limits, boys are wearing Mary Jane shoes, stockings and skirts in bright colors and a well-fitting silhouette. Gucci breaks male rules and neutral beauty, showing diversified sides of men.
Gucci’s ambassador Kim Jong In (Kai), artist Maurizio Cattelan, rapper Tyler the Creator, musician Mark Ronson and actor Earl Cave all wear different styles to the Gucci A/W 20/21 menswear show.
Check is still an important element in this season. Gucci uses feminine and neutral designs to bring retro charm. Retro check set and fresh blue check fabric bring a lethargic and free feel, and display the retro and preppy charm.
Knitwear in this season is strongly retro. The hand-crocheted florals, loose cardigan and color-blocked knitwear all bring a romantic and retro feel to the simple silhouette.
ALMOSTBLACK identifies itself as a Post Japonism brand. Its design style integrates with the essence of traditional Japanese aesthetics, creating menswear with strong punk and street style. Founded by designers Shunta Nakajima and Masaki Kawase, the brand has been active in the fashion circle since 2015, providing space for the two designers to create classic works. The S/S 2020 series, with the theme of PLAY FORM, is inspired by Isamu Noguchi’s sculpture which has a technique of first drawing grid paper on curved parts, then carving stones into the shapes of the parts, and finally combining them together. This series includes printing patterns, embroidered jackets and functional clothing.
Ready-to-wear of this season is all in the loose silhouette, and combined with ingenious arc structures and eye-catching details to enrich the beauty of clothing structure, and to display the inspiration and creativity of designers. Tonal design or color-blocked design in placement could add an individual feel.
Large-scale abstract printing is the featured pattern in S/S 2020. Black and white tones are dominant, while small-scale abstract patterns are decorated by a few golden, red and bright blue decorations, adding a unique quality sense and visual enjoyment to the brand’s menswear.
The brand still keeps the street punk style. Metal rivets, round buttons and zipper are added to styles. Metal and black materials make a contrast to show the uniqueness and provide more space for creativity, displaying the balanced and harmonious beauty of design.
Black and white are the most classic tones. Designers interpret the diversification of shirts through the layered design on sleeves, ruffles on sleeves, double-colored neckline, bright-colored topstitch in the back and the segmentation of plackets, adding a unique individuality to the black and white shirts.
ALMOSTBLACK applies more diversified designs to trousers for S/S 2020. The one-piece trousers, functional trousers and tampered trousers are combined with tabs, pleats and zippers to provide space for men to show individuality and express selves.
EDI.Z LINGFENG’s A/W 19/20 collection, with the theme of Junction, is inspired by DESTINY which tells about strange story where humans and evil spirits live together. Designers apply strange colors and structures to express mutual trust and love in real life.
EDI.Z LINGFENG is a British menswear brand founded in 2017. The conflicts in daily life and subcultures supply inspiration to EDI.Z LINGFENG. The collection features the conflicts between different cultures, and aesthetic balance is the principle.
Supersize letters are striking visually. Letters echo the imaginable space and present a conflicted and strange aesthetic.
Splicing of different materials is favored by designers. Glossy coated fabrics are the most popular. Candy colors are refreshing and rebellious.
This time, EDI.Z LINGFENG invited Greater Dog Spatial Research Lab. Red Hu and Jin Xin of the lab helped design this show. The inspiration came from Huang Quan Guo Du meaning the place for the dead.