This is Alessandro Michele’s fifth year at Gucci. Michele leads us to rethink the definition of masculinity through the nonlinear time travel to the moment of birth. Gucci jumps out of traditional concepts and rewrites the powerful male chauvinism. Without social restraints or power limits, boys are wearing Mary Jane shoes, stockings and skirts in bright colors and a well-fitting silhouette. Gucci breaks male rules and neutral beauty, showing diversified sides of men.
Gucci’s ambassador Kim Jong In (Kai), artist Maurizio Cattelan, rapper Tyler the Creator, musician Mark Ronson and actor Earl Cave all wear different styles to the Gucci A/W 20/21 menswear show.
Check is still an important element in this season. Gucci uses feminine and neutral designs to bring retro charm. Retro check set and fresh blue check fabric bring a lethargic and free feel, and display the retro and preppy charm.
Knitwear in this season is strongly retro. The hand-crocheted florals, loose cardigan and color-blocked knitwear all bring a romantic and retro feel to the simple silhouette.
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ALMOSTBLACK identifies itself as a Post Japonism brand. Its design style integrates with the essence of traditional Japanese aesthetics, creating menswear with strong punk and street style. Founded by designers Shunta Nakajima and Masaki Kawase, the brand has been active in the fashion circle since 2015, providing space for the two designers to create classic works. The S/S 2020 series, with the theme of PLAY FORM, is inspired by Isamu Noguchi’s sculpture which has a technique of first drawing grid paper on curved parts, then carving stones into the shapes of the parts, and finally combining them together. This series includes printing patterns, embroidered jackets and functional clothing.
Ready-to-wear of this season is all in the loose silhouette, and combined with ingenious arc structures and eye-catching details to enrich the beauty of clothing structure, and to display the inspiration and creativity of designers. Tonal design or color-blocked design in placement could add an individual feel.
Large-scale abstract printing is the featured pattern in S/S 2020. Black and white tones are dominant, while small-scale abstract patterns are decorated by a few golden, red and bright blue decorations, adding a unique quality sense and visual enjoyment to the brand’s menswear.
The brand still keeps the street punk style. Metal rivets, round buttons and zipper are added to styles. Metal and black materials make a contrast to show the uniqueness and provide more space for creativity, displaying the balanced and harmonious beauty of design.
Black and white are the most classic tones. Designers interpret the diversification of shirts through the layered design on sleeves, ruffles on sleeves, double-colored neckline, bright-colored topstitch in the back and the segmentation of plackets, adding a unique individuality to the black and white shirts.
ALMOSTBLACK applies more diversified designs to trousers for S/S 2020. The one-piece trousers, functional trousers and tampered trousers are combined with tabs, pleats and zippers to provide space for men to show individuality and express selves.
EDI.Z LINGFENG’s A/W 19/20 collection, with the theme of Junction, is inspired by DESTINY which tells about strange story where humans and evil spirits live together. Designers apply strange colors and structures to express mutual trust and love in real life.
EDI.Z LINGFENG is a British menswear brand founded in 2017. The conflicts in daily life and subcultures supply inspiration to EDI.Z LINGFENG. The collection features the conflicts between different cultures, and aesthetic balance is the principle.
Supersize letters are striking visually. Letters echo the imaginable space and present a conflicted and strange aesthetic.
Splicing of different materials is favored by designers. Glossy coated fabrics are the most popular. Candy colors are refreshing and rebellious.
This time, EDI.Z LINGFENG invited Greater Dog Spatial Research Lab. Red Hu and Jin Xin of the lab helped design this show. The inspiration came from Huang Quan Guo Du meaning the place for the dead.
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