Craft and detail are of great importance in A/W 20/21. Compared with clothing silhouette, more designers convey their ingenious thoughts to cautious consumers through craft changes and creative details. Influenced by current trends, the market is more favorable to bold, eye-catching, individual, simple and versatile craft and detail. Rubbing, discharge print, digital all-over print, and combined crafts of offset print gradually enter into the public view.
Rubbing has a long history in China. It is a hand-made reproduction of a carved or stone-cut surface by covering the surface tightly with a piece of paper and rubbing in black or colored material. Now, a Berlin company, Raubdruckerin has done something creative. In more than 20 cities, they put dyestuff on manhole covers, fences and the rest public facilities, then directly cover them with clothes and even backpacks. The idea of printing the manhole covers on T-shirts came from Emma France Raff. A decade ago, as she traveled around the world, she discovered manhole covers were like unique business cards handed out by cities, which triggered her desire to leave the mark as a memorial.
Discharge print is breathable, visible but impalpable. But it can only be printed on pure cotton fabrics dyed by polymer reactive dyes which can be costly, rather than on light-colored fabrics (Watermark can be used as a substitution).
Variegated blurred patterns sweep catwalks for S/S 2019, and become hot currently. Each item has blurred color blocks, with a simple silhouette to be unique, and add commercial value to shirts and hooded sweatshirts in A/W 20/21. Illusive looks and blurred elements will be softer in A/W 20/21, fit for avant-garde young consumers. Besides, Alexander McQueen and Palm Angels use blurred patterns boldly.
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