Craft and detail are of great importance in A/W 20/21. Compared with clothing silhouette, more designers convey their ingenious thoughts to cautious consumers through craft changes and creative details. Influenced by current trends, the market is more favorable to bold, eye-catching, individual, simple and versatile craft and detail. Rubbing, discharge print, digital all-over print, and combined crafts of offset print gradually enter into the public view.
Rubbing has a long history in China. It is a hand-made reproduction of a carved or stone-cut surface by covering the surface tightly with a piece of paper and rubbing in black or colored material. Now, a Berlin company, Raubdruckerin has done something creative. In more than 20 cities, they put dyestuff on manhole covers, fences and the rest public facilities, then directly cover them with clothes and even backpacks. The idea of printing the manhole covers on T-shirts came from Emma France Raff. A decade ago, as she traveled around the world, she discovered manhole covers were like unique business cards handed out by cities, which triggered her desire to leave the mark as a memorial.
Discharge print is breathable, visible but impalpable. But it can only be printed on pure cotton fabrics dyed by polymer reactive dyes which can be costly, rather than on light-colored fabrics (Watermark can be used as a substitution).
Variegated blurred patterns sweep catwalks for S/S 2019, and become hot currently. Each item has blurred color blocks, with a simple silhouette to be unique, and add commercial value to shirts and hooded sweatshirts in A/W 20/21. Illusive looks and blurred elements will be softer in A/W 20/21, fit for avant-garde young consumers. Besides, Alexander McQueen and Palm Angels use blurred patterns boldly.
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Escape from the pressure of the city, embark on a journey to the distance, and find a blend of youth and nature. As Fernando Pessoa wrote in The Book of Disquiet: I would like to live a different life in a faraway land. We roam freely under the sky, search the comfortable shore of the deep heart. Every time we set out, it is to meet a better yourself. Whether it is the original intention of human, or the call of nature, the outdoor world has become a desirable spiritual place. Embrace nature, relax at weekends, connect with nature, we interpret the casual outdoor look and revive mind with another life style.
The 96th Pitti Uomo menswear exhibition was held in Florence. The “I Go Out” exhibition area of outdoor sportswear made its third appearance. This time, I Go Out worked with And Wander (one of the three major Yama Brands in Japan), Hi Tec (an outdoor brand founded in the UK by Dutch Frank van Wezel) and Topo Designs (founded by Americans Jedd Rose and Mark Hansen) to put on a fashion show. The show was particular about materials and functionality, displaying fashionable designs of “Go Out” and interpreting the beauty of nature through clothing.
Marble is the metamorphic rock formed by high temperature and high pressure in the earthcrust. Its section can form a variety of colorful and natural texture with different patterns. Marble patterns are blurred and abstract, with the soft pink tones to be unique in outdoor clothing.
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The post-80s and post-90s are the group who first contact and become the most enthusiastic about arcade games. In 1971, the world’s first arcade was born in a computer laboratory in the United States, originating in bars. With a history of 38 years, arcade game is the oldest video game. Although arcade games fade in the rapidly changes of video games, their grainy pixel images dominate the childhood memories of those born in the 1980s and 1990s.
Arcade games remind of the surrounding streets. Supreme and Agnes use the soft focus effect to present the retro streets of the 1970s-1990s. The lettered lamp is also the classical element of current Chinese fashion.
The familiar mosaic game interface can be used to clothing as placement patterns, bringing a dazzling and retro feeling.
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With the awakening of women’s self-consciousness and accumulating wealth on their own, women’s social status changes silently. Therefore, we can fully perceive the softness and hardness, vulnerability and strength, curiosity and exploration of modern women. Floral implies the self-expression of females, so different crafts of florals will be widely applied to clothing and accessories. The floral is mostly combined with padded embroidery.
Image is the material representation of human visual perception. The floral image is the final artistic flower image created by optical equipment, such as single-lens reflex camera, and human creation. The latest show of Valentino magnifies a single flower or combines more than two flowers on the item, with cutwork embroidery to perfectly display the single floral image.
Su embroidery is the abbreviation of embroidery in Suzhou. There are four kinds of embroidery in China – Su embroidery, Yue embroidery, Xiang embroidery and Shu embroidery. The latest season of Giambattista Valli scatters the big or small single floral of Su embroidery through applique, interpreting the delicate workmanship of the brand.
The outbreak is spreading, and all Chinese people are making efforts. After the outbreak, people may have different life philosophy, and may focus more on health and nature. So there will be a new pattern trend. Many designers and illustrators also create works about moments of the plague.
Currently, there are no styles about the plague in the market. So we recommend to apply Chinese fashion patterns to leisure or street fashion clothing. Young people are more likely to participate and involve in current events. Designers can start from humorous, gossip, popular and warning patterns.
Designers can use distressing, splashing, graffiti, letter, decoration and floral to make Chinese character patterns more superior. Characters and design techniques need to be positive rather than being dark. The floral pattern below is Wuhan’s city flower, plum blossom, which will help to go through the dark.
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Frozen is set in the fictional kingdom of Arendelle which is inspired by Norwegian spectacular natural scenery, including snow-capped mountains and tranquil fiords. In terms of characters’ costumes, the animation team also draws many inspirations from the unique architectures, culture and traditions of Norway.
As the snow queen, Elsa’s dress shows an ethereal and pure sense with the help of crystal clear snow. And sequins, beads and rhinestones are applied to the fabric to make the dress sparkling. And the pattern is mainly the snowflake. The hemline is equipped with plain geometric and linear patterns. While Anna’s dress tends to have a warm quality sense. The symmetric floral patterns and fringes are decorated in buttons. And color-blocked geometric patterns are added to cuffs and the neckline.
Elsa exudes infinite charm under the sky or in the snowfield. The posters show the most gripping scenes to arouse people’s curiosity about the story of Arendelle. Anna and Elsa will go deep into the mysterious magical forest to discover the truth about the source of Elsa’s magic, and the long-hidden secrets of the kingdom of Arendelle, a magical kingdom with elements of wind, fire water, and soil.
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The illustration of big color blocks gains much attention. Simple color blocks turn into fun patterns through ingenious combinations. Houseware is necessary in our daily life. The pattern which focuses on trifles in daily life enters the public view.
Inspirations are from works of Morandi and Matisse. The pattern uses abstract color blocks and harmonious colors to combine the florals with houseware, and it is also a beautiful and artistic work. Applique and positioned print can be applied to the dress or jacquard on Resort knitwear.
Inspirations come from meals. The popular home tones make food illustrations lovely. Geometric color blocks and the color match make the simple food pattern appealing.
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