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Seoul is the gathering place of young, vigorous and fashionable clothes. This report concludes women’s knitwear in S/S 2020 Korean wholesale markets and analyzes from details, crafts and patterns. Details (asymmetrical neckline and ruffled collar), crafts (cables and mixed materials) and patterns (fresh flowers and repetitive animals) work together to enhance the chic feel and display female charm.
Asymmetrical design is offbeat. Multicolored stripes decorate the neckline, creating a colorful and asymmetrical visual impact.
Layered ruffles display female elegance. In S/S 2020, gauze ruffles are soft, and bright-colored ruffles present the young vitality of summer clothing.
Cables have always been indispensable for knitwear. In S/S 2020, cables and the crisp silhouette are combined, or multiple crafts are mixed, strengthening the quality sense.
Hand-crocheting has a long history. It depicts the beauty of patterns and displays the warmth of handicrafts. Hand-crocheting makes the knitwear more layered and 3D. In A/W 21/22, hand-crocheting is more lavish and finer, presenting the charm of elegant and sophisticated women via daily clothing.
In A/W 21/22, exquisite lace appears. Hand-woven lace has been a daily fashion with the development of science and technology. Lace enhances the quality of knitwear. And the lace set is well-fitting, ideal to be the base-layer of overcoats.
Delicate sets work well for commute, leaving a harmonious and orderly impression. And the set can also be separated to pair with other items, quite flexible.
Hand-woven flowers are created by the combination of chain stitch, long stitch and short stitch. Complicated crafts display the delicacy of hand-crocheting. In A/W 21/22, hand-crocheted flowers decorate the collar and cuffs, enhancing the 3D feel. With the development of technologies, machines can also create a hand-crocheting effect, greatly improving the production efficiency.
As knitwear gets more ready-to-wear and consumers increasingly pursue high-quality clothing, traditional embroidery gains more attention. In A/W 21/22, embroidery pays more attention to the color contrast with the knitwear body, different combined elements, the combination with other crafts and handmade embroidery effect, bringing a simple yet chic visual feeling.
Color-blocked letters, as well as integrating floral and stripe into letters are recommended. Machine embroidery can well control the pattern effect, displaying the combined multiple elements.
Fine hand-embroidery enriches the expression forms. Color-blocking on placement is exquisite. Hot florals as main patterns are mostly applied to the neckline, hemline and cuffs, making a sharp contrast with the knitwear body.
Emphasizing edges is a key design of knitwear. When yarns are turned into hand-made overlocking, color-blocking, asymmetric design and silhouette are emphasized. The rough visual impact displays the aesthetics of handicraft.
Founded in 2006, III VIVINIKO has always taken “simple freshness” as the design concept. It advocates using the most minimalist technique to interpret freshness. With the theme of My City My Holiday, its S/S 2020 collection conveys a life attitude of keeping pace with the times through the relationship between color, pattern and silhouette, and advocates urban women in the city to enjoy a free and comfortable lifestyle like during holiday.
III VIVINIKO S/S 2020 collection brings the auk, shell and waves in the south China Sea into urban life. The jacquard, print and cross-stitch of flying birds depict fun pictures, with the coast map and big florals to echo the theme and bring a strong resort style.
French ditsies pattern is the main element in this collection. Romantic florals break the plainness of solid knitwear. Dotted line jacquard and letter embroidery enrich the layered sense, bring strong vitality of spring, and create a relaxing holiday vibe for urban women.
The knitwear dress of III VIVINIKO is soft and elastic. Orderly stitches make the item well-fitting and comfortable. Cutout on the shoulder, layered ruffles and transparent yarns are quite important, adding a soft feeling. Natural transfer stitches and smooth lines make the item strongly feminine.
The minimalist aesthetics always occupies a certain space in the fashion world. This season women’s knitwear emphasize the appearance change and transfer stitches to create 3D sleeves. The appropriate space is free and easy for the body. Smooth lines are in line with human curves. Subtle changes of details display the fun of simplicity.
The one-piece sewing is the main expression of designs on sleeves. Buttons, long straps and contrasting overlocking create soft and natural sleeves. The simple and flowing visual effect is the direction of the new season.
The draping sleeves have layered crinkles. Compared with disorderly gatherings in previous seasons, the draping sleeves are more regular, with tensile stitch textures to leave some space for the arm.
A piece of spliced clothing that combines knitted and woven fabrics implies structure changes and secrets to diversified clothing collocation. It can bring a warm and skin-friendly wearing experience, fit for early autumn. The organic combination of ready-to-wear with knitwear will provide new inspirations for new season’s development. Compared with previous seasons, this season pays more attention to the direct splicing of materials, and uses inserting or sewing silhouette to integrate naturally.
Diversified clothing market is open and inclusive. Spliced materials make a contrast and form a unity, which is a key factor. For women’s knitwear, apart from splicing shoulder with front panel, splicing shoulder with the back panel also pursues the layered contrast brought by different materials. The structure change will enhance the inclusiveness of knitwear.
Splicing of knitted and woven fabrics tends to be integrated in the new season. Deconstruction is for wearing one piece of clothing in multiple ways. The most representative brand is Burberry. It integrates sleeveless shirt with cashmere cardigan through sewing the two hemlines, so the item can also be a dress, fit for multiple occasions.
Oil paintings of Marc Chagall have bright and gorgeous colors, and bring a surreal dreamlike charm. Chagall draws inspirations from the plain images in nature, and subjects are mainly about lovers, romances, and Jewish legends. Chagall integrates love into the paintings. Different colors represent different good meanings, which is blended with the rhythmic textures of oil painting. This also inspires the development of knitwear colors. In view of trend and data analysis, we select four representative colors, “the flowing blue pigment” displays the neat cutting; “Baltic” has the crystal blue-green, quite inclusive; positive and optimistic “limelight” shows a ladylike temperament; “exuberance” renews the tones of commute clothing. (The inverted body in Marc Chagall’s painting is deeply moving. The figure will turn yellow or green after praying for a long time, so Chagall’s yellow and green represent sincerity.)
Blue appears frequently in oil paintings of Chagall, and is known as Chagall Blue. Here we can see the vivid flowing blue. Chagall endows blue with a flowing sense, so the flowing blue brings vitality and calmness.
Princess blue is fit for smooth cutting, neat silhouette and details (radial gilding/ natural crinkled brought by drawstring) to show the refined sense of blue. The asymmetric A-line skirt can be paired with the neat knitwear, quite soft.
The four fashion weeks for A/W 20/21 have been affected by the outbreak of NCP to varying degrees. Chinese buyers, stars and media workers have cancelled their schedules. Giorgio Armani’s Milan show has changed to online launch. The theme of this Milan Fashion Week is also related to China: “CHINA, WE ARE WITH YOU”. For Paris Fashion Week, despite the schedule change, brands such as MASHAMA, Shiatzy Chen and Uma Wang have also cancelled the event. However, there are still many highlights and vibrancy. This report will analyze from stitches, splicing and decoration to carefully select crafts in the four fashion weeks to help with the development of women’s knitwear.
In the four fashion weeks, fine transfer stitches well sketch the breast and waist, becoming a highlight. The basic 1×1 rib changes along with lines, and replaces the princess seam and fishbone support in ready-to-wear. The textural space and the seamless comfortable touch conform to human curves and the skin.
Heavy-gauged textures emphasize the clear and bright stitch length and the concave-convex 3D effect, with the help of black, grey and camel to display the freedom and confidence of urban females. The 3.5 heavy-gauged stitches are thick and warm, suitable for autumn and winter.
Light and comfortable dress and the tight cardigan are suitable to be the inner in autumn and winter. Pointelle, kwise and purl stitches and tuck are combined variously to make the fabric more layered, which is the key design technique of this season.
Vigorous and fashionable trendsetters of the new era have completely different thinking mode and brand-new lifestyle, and pay more attention to casual wearing experience and unique details. Sweatshirts with both comfort and fashion are the first choice for youngsters. Knitwear sweatshirts in the new season advocate the wearing experience of casual beauty with details as the main and the silhouette as the complementary. This report will elaborate main points of the trend from “layer contrast”, “spliced materials”, “layered sleeves” and “bracket-style sleeves”. This report also recommends comfortable and good-looking knitwear sweatshirts to help with the development of the young and casual style.
The loose silhouette and neat bracket-style sleeves are main silhouette points of women’s knitwear sweatshirts in the new season, and can strengthen female temperament. The soft and tough lines and neat cutting show the fashionable sense of the wearer. Crisp bracket-style sleeves are combined with details to show the fashion and leisure temperament. The sweatshirt of Les Coyotes De Paris uses letters and slogans as topstitches. Simple but powerful outlines reveal the confidence and uniqueness, very representative.
Different from the flat color-blocking in previous seasons, knitwear sweatshirts in the new season advocates more layer changes. With the help of color-blocking, ruffles and layered fabrics display the layered sense of the item. Compared with simple color blocks, the space sense of the item is tensile and fully shows the youthful vitality. In order to avoid the heavy and thick sense of two pieces, lightweight yarns or small-scale panel are applied to design partially. The style of LOEWE is one of the best examples.
Because of the outbreak, antibacterial and protective fabrics are being snapped up by major medical manufacturers. Exercise and immunity will become the focus of S/S 2021, and people will pay more attention to improving their immune system through various sports. This season the knitted fabric will tend to be more protective and functional, and become water-proof, antibacterial, comfortable and luxurious to be all-weather and durable.
Matte Dryness and Comfort
This quick-dry jersey is always matte, adding an exquisite feel to the sportif style. Light tones with low saturation can further enhance the effect. The dry and comfortable touch highlights the matte surface of smooth fabrics. It is also moisture-wicking.
Panels in a solid color or pairing soft tones with brights are used to create a fluent silhouette and create a modern youthful style. Seams and stitched edges are folded to weaken the stitch. It is suitable for the dress, knitwear and the set.