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CHANEL S/S 2022 Ready-to-Wear collection returned to the Grand Palais. The show without magnificent props put emphasis on the release of clothing. Inspired by the magic of fashion seen through the photographer’s lens, the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2022 Ready-to-Wear show evokes the heightened emotions and memories of the raised runways of the 1980s surrounded by photographers and flashbulbs. Romantic with a touch of mystery, the collection balances the graphic purity of black and white, playful summer stripes, and the dark whimsy of a butterfly’s wings on black chiffon. Behind the camera lens, model Vivienne Rohner plays the role of both photographer and fashion muse in cinematic black and white, for a first glimpse of the inspirations behind the collection by Virginie Viard.
Bright colors were the mainstream of this ready-to-wear show, which was not a stranger to CHANEL, because Karl Lagerfeld often applied these tones in the last 80s and 90s. It could be the exclusive memory for CHANEL in that period.
Virginie Viard woven the brand DNA of CHANEL into the motif this season. Double-C was integrated into jacquard, obscure motif, yarn-dye and sequin to form fabrics. Besides, logo is rather important to the luxury market, and this essence of brand creates ready-to-wear with high recognition.
The changes of plaid was a diversified mixture in the S/S 2022 collection. Crocheted plaid, colorful chained plaid, cut-out plaid and patch-like woven plaid displayed different CHANEL women in this new era.
The Spring/Summer 2022 Prada show is staged, simultaneously, in the Deposito of the Fondazione Prada, Milan and in Bund 1, Shanghai. Seduction, Stripped Down is the name Prada and Simons gave to the collection. Complex historical elements were rebuilt to be modernized and simple to interpret the embrace and subversion of sexiness. Bra cups and corset bones were fused with knitwear, outerwear and dress by modernized designs to feel solemn, sexy and harmonious; evening gown was simplified to reach a balance between seduction and mini-malism; raw or distressed leather jackets and tiny duchesse satin miniskirts presented the interplay of elegancy and punk. Miuccia and Raf created a fantastic and realistic renewing process by deconstructing and regrouping daywear with gorgeous clothing.
Distressed heavy leather jacket is a key item this season, which fuses the wildness of rock singers and riders. Dark-tone punk leather and crisp genderless silhouette are layered with duchesse satin miniskirts to bring the conflict of masculinity and elegancy, roughness and fine-ness, which is exactly PRADA’s reinterpretation of sexy.
The palette of PRADA defined the sexy, luxurious and passionate touch of high-saturation bright colors. Salted Lime, Oriole, Blazing Yellow and Poinciana endow minimalist modern styles with luxurious sexy though visual impact and high saturation.
The bones of corset were used throughout the collection. Irregular, loose arrangement focused on the comfort of slim waist and maintained the core element. Red lace dress was fused with corsetry bones to present amazing visual effect and interpret the pioneering sexy concept.
A series of photographs of one of Monsieur Dior’s haute couture lines, taken near the iconic Parthenon in 1951, was the inspiration for the Dior cruise 2022 collection. In the heart of the city dedicated to Athena, Maria Grazia Chiuri reinvents her genealogy and tweaks the codes – art lies not in the object created, but in one’s ability to create – such as the peplum. The goddess tunic, evoking marble and ancient statuary, is resolutely ethereal thanks to its fabrics and handmade pleats, a chiaroscuro in fluting.