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David Koma Resort 2022 collection built the sexy and nostalgic prosperousness which better fits the spotlighted night of 70’s disco ball. After a year of evolution, Koma has been flashy once again. Tied crystal mini-skirt, low-waist ultralong dress and lace shirtdress are the customized items for hot girls. The sunset outfits in orange and pale purple present exquisite tailoring. Comfortable sporty shirt and sweater are also integrated ingeniously into the collection. Signature rhinestone, sequin and cutout elements are combined with tied-up details and sculptural tailoring to stress the sexy curves. A swimsuit collection was also released. Rhinestone flowers and jewelry printing are decorated on bikini and dress to take Koma girls from disco ball to the swimming pool.
Practical daywear sweatshirt and denim items interpret the concept of being sexy and leisurely through patterns and collocations. Playful rhinestone flower is decorated on chest; water-drop sequin bustier is mixed with low-waist jeans; discharge-printed denim is cool and gentle; translucent long stockings exude a thick sexual appeal.
Rhinestone is a signature element for David Koma. Rhinestone flowers, draping tassels and geometric shapes are decorated in the placement of dress and bustier to underline the luxurious prosperousness.
Ties are used on high-position slitting instead of sewing to maximize the sexual appeal. The placement application on wild leather nightgown and high-waist flares is retro and high-class.
The Campaign for Wool is a global endeavour initiated by its patron, His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales, in 2010 in order to raise awareness among consumers about the natural benefits of the fiber, and also provide support for farmers and the textile industry. “Wool is an extremely natural, renewable and biodegradable fiber — absolutely sustainable,” His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales said,”Choosing real wool is also a love for our planet.” Since its launch in 2010, The Campaign for Wool has influenced a new demand for wool on an international scale, and its efforts have seen an outstanding threefold increase in the price farmers receive for their wool. This global event is supported by major trade textile organizations, designers and retailers, including Paul Smith, Vivienne Westwood and Topshop.
Sport has become the must-have part in our life and work. And with the constant evolution of sportswear, opportunities are given to more fabrics. Natural woolen fiber is a healthy and eco-friendly material in the natural world, which satisfies the global sustainable development. Sportswool made of the blending with other fibers can better fit the physiological functions of human body. The blend of The Woolmark Company’s merino wool and other fibers is convenient, resilient and elastic; The textile is also breathable, waterproof and fast-dry.
Nowadays, people pay more attention to releasing the original feeling of body. Comfort has been the top requirement of consumers instead of fashion. The birth of athletic wool subverts the stereotype of knitting and satisfies the more casual lifestyle of modern people. Sportswool maintains the natural properties of wool, including softness, air-permeability and odor resistance. Novel spinning technology endows textiles with better elasticity and resilience, and allows wearers to be free and comfortable during sport. Covering yarn and embedded composite spinning are the two major spinning methods currently.
Current sportswool is the blend of wool and man-made fibers. With the constant development of textile industry, eco-friendly CiCLO degradable polyester, Paramos weak-acid skin-friendly cellulose fiber, anti-bacterial chitin, Nano Silver technology and odor-resistant PANACEA photocatalytic man-made fiber can all be blended with wool to take the comfort and functionality of sportswool to another level.
Contemporary women’s pursuit of dress freedom is not only shown on styles, the prettiness and changes of fabric are also noteworthy. The extensibility and flexibility of pleat provide unique fashion imagination and rich visual effects. The craft language of pleat changes the flat structure of haute couture. This kind of unlimited yet gathered, flat yet crinkled effect strengthens the 3D effect and unique rhythm of clothing. The dynamic and liner beauty brought by pleats also allows the wearers to present dimensional body shapes.
Multiple kinds of pleats are decorated on shoulders to outline the charming body of women, which is graceful and powerful. The large-scale loose pleats present rich and individualized layers, and the fusion with fresh colors is extremely peaceful.
Sleeve is an important position for gown dress. The pleated voluminous sleeve is rather distinctive. Besides, exaggerated sleeve can also cover the flaws of body to beautify the shape.
Delicate bows are presented vertically to show elegancy instead of sweetness. The combination with gown dress and body curve improves the visual effect of women body.
In the meticulous sewing of one stitch and one thread, handicraft artists can create various foods that are uncannily lifelike and exquisite enough to feast the eyes. When making food embroidery works, they carefully and comprehensively observe the food; They also choose the embroidery thread that looks delicious and mix all kinds of threads complexly. These handicraft artists use embroidery to describe what they think and make it their own brushes.
Dagmar Stap uses embroidery to make some classic food packaging. This creative method also originates from her trip to an Asian supermarket. All kinds of special packaging there intrigued her, and the Chinese embroidery there also fascinated her. Therefore, she began to combine these two items that she is obsessed with to create these works. INS: dagmarstap
Youmeng Liu is a Yunnan handicraft artist who is now living in the UK. After graduating from London College of Fashion, she founded Dream’s Code, a boutique fashion brand that combines British leather craftsmanship with Bai traditional embroidery in China, which cleverly connects the skills and cultures of the two countries. The project named “Embroidery Edibles” has just started and has already brought her a lot of attention. The online world of Youmeng Liu continues to feed people’s amazement. INS: embroiderycode
Chloe Amy Avery, from London, graduated with a master’s degree in textile art. She has both talents and passion, and devotes herself into study the balance between oil painting and embroidery. Chloe says that she will firstly express her creativity through a free-hand sketch, and then conceive how to start the first stitch according to the sketch. The key is to carefully consider the collocation and fusion of the colors in the sketch, so that the details can be reflected incisively and vividly. The stitches used by Chloe are not complicated, for what she pursues is to use embroidery to express the hyper-realistic form of food. Through continuous study and exploration, Chloe has formed her independent creative style, which is defined as surreal impressionism by the industry. INS: Chloe Amy Avery
Inspired by the world of fairy tales, the Dioramour capsule designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri celebrates loved ones, paying ode to tender declarations and the art of giving. Dior Caro bag, Lady Dior bag and leather ornaments are all decorated by the exclusive heart motifs. The exquisite craft fully reveals the prominent creativity of Dior.
The love story of Gucci Chinese Valentine’s Day collection is separated into three parts, the possibility of encounter, the accelerated heart rate and the frequency of creating sweetness.
The collection Some Encounters You Wear Forever brings us the mysterious story between the Chanel image representatives Liu Wen and Jing Boran.
Miuccia Prada toys with all the characteristics of a nautical atmosphere to create a Miu Miu Maritime collection. The clothes are fresh, spirited, evocative of mariner attire yet exaggerated by the lens of fashion. Traditionally masculine gestures – the flap collar, wide shoulders, an air of utility – are abstracted to be fused with the inherently feminine, with softly rounded sleeves, lace detailing, ruffles, bows.
With the individualization of clothing, more attention is paid to the function and value of accessories. Zipper is absolutely the most important functional accessory in sportswear design. And the presentation in fashion design is transferred from functionality to diversity. Zipper has already become a diverse element which is both decorative and practical. Innovative materials, printed stripes and gradient rainbow zipper present different styles through various changes.
Metallic and lustrous functional zipper is the noteworthy point of A/W 22/23. The application on placket or in placement uses TPU film to provide the shiny gloss and also maintains the waterproof function.
Gradient color is popular in recent years. Virtual is a new fashion trend, and this realistic yet imaginary style features gradient neon. The application on zipper strengthens the individuality.
Striped design is still important in A/W 22/23. FENDI X K-WAY collection brings striped zipper back to the public vision. Saturated color is fused with classic stripes. The decoration on minimalist styles improves the whole fashionable feel.
The new series of Gossip Girl has been on HBO Max. Eight years after the original series ended, a new rich generation of the Upper East Side were shown. The new heroine is still studying in the Constance School and the narrator Kristen Bell also keeps the classic lines — “You know you love me, XOXO, gossip girl.” To fit in the new position of being a social network star, the heroine shaved her head and worn in younger Gen Z styles instead of being a socialite of the Upper East Side. Preppy style had been the privilege of elites in 80s until the existence of Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger and Brooks Brothers, which introduced this upper-class fashion to the public.
With the popularity of girl groups, preppy style has gradually penetrated into our vision and affected the fashion trend. Extracted from library books and environment, thick Sodalite Blue, Molten Lava, Evergreen and Minion Yellow are fused with neutral Brown Sugar to present a younger preppy style. Blue Nights and Blanc de Blanc are complemented to show the feel of commuting daywear. This individualized, comfortable and casual attitude can fully express one’s personality.
As the most representative pattern of preppy style, check is always fused with high-class retro tones. These stylish and good-looking check elements exude the British elegancy and interpret the classic feel of old times. Yarn-dyed checks can even bring the touch of haute couture. Check plays an important role in the theme of Back In Time. Bold changes are made on the formation to subvert the stereotype. Colored lines are injected into traditional checks to enrich the girly sense.
Guided by the genderless design, architectural and minimalist tailoring has become a trendy technique of designers. From irregular geometric shape to overlapped structure and accessories, the changes of placement details allow delicate structures to directly improve the clothing quality. This report will emphasize the detail craft of front fly.
Button tab front fly is highly practical. Buttons are sewn on the tab to fix the clothing and enrich the layers. The material conflict between tab and clothing can also strengthen the sense of design.
Mechanical structure is mainly presented in futuristic commuting style. Straightly-cut structures are layered to present a futuristic mechanical style.
Geometric front fly performs well in the market, which updates the design concept and presents the protective visual effect.
With the in-depth combination of fashion and sport, sportswear has become more and more stylish. The strong momentum brought by hip-pop leads athleisure trousers to be the mainstream. Loose silhouettes are more convenient and comfortable for both exercising and daily life. Fun color blocking endows sport trousers with street fashion. This report will bring you the new looks of A/W 22/23 sport trousers through the aspects of silhouette and detail.
Mainstream sport brands as Nike and The North Face have released athletic overalls to catch the fashion trend and attract young consumers. Mesh splicing, multiple pockets and color blocking maintain the sport properties. Accessories like buckle and zipper improve its functionality. Besides, the pairing with sweatshirt and baseball cap integrates outdoor with leisure.
Oversized silhouette and sustainable fabrics bring loose styles for both home and daily life. Flared trousers and cuffed trousers pay attention to the released volume of waist. Crinkles can control the volume and ensure the fashionable feel of design.
Following the trendy tie-dyed style, color gradient is also noteworthy in A/W 22/23, which can renew the basic popular items. Lightweight nylon and comfortable knit present trousers with different styles. Placement gradient, two-color gradient, tri-color gradient and horizontal gradient strengthen the design sense. The color gradient brought by tie-dye and spray-dye is more attractive in set.
S/S 2022 Paris Menswear Fashion Week was held from June 22th to 28th. Most brands still released their latest collections online. However, the pure digital fashion show has gradually transitioned into a mixed form in the post-pandemic era. The offline events absolutely promoted the attraction of this fashion week. There were 72 brands involved in the show, including Louis Vuitton, DIOR MEN, LOEWE, Yohji Yamamoto, Hermès and Lemaire. Meanwhile, the classic French fashion house Courrèges(founded in 1961) will also return with the first collection of its new creative director Nicolas Di Felice. Dior’s cactus garden, Loewe’s disco look and the beaches of Rick Owens and Lanvin compose the hedonistic atmosphere of 2022 spring.
DIOR MEN — Inspired by the story of Christian Dior, Kim Jones invited the Houston rapper and musician Travis Scott to present this S/S 2022 menswear collection. Memories of Christian Dior’s childhood gardens are fused with the cactus-heavy Texan landscape to create a cross-cultural and cross-era fantastic runway, reviewing the artistic charm from the perspective of Dior. Hermès — Abandoning the traditional formal wear, designer injects a sense of leisure into light-hearted and lively designs to outline minimalist lines, which accentuates silhouette and exquisite tailoring. Bursts of color and graphic stitching are used more in this season, and mixed multiple materials enliven the whole collection. Louis Vuitton — The seventh collection of Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton was named after the classic song of The Winstons — Amen Break. This mysterious, isolated and weird atmosphere creates a dystopia future, especially reflecting the historical track of Black art and culture. Except for the performance of multiple African artists and hip-pop music, the clothing of this collection also presents the unique personality. Oriental belted element, draped dress hem and athleisure baseball sportswear present intensive visual impact. These bright and eye-catching colors bring us a fashion feast. Burberry — Burberry S/S 2022 menswear collection has released. The creative director Riccardo Tisci combined freedom with unity to jump out of the constraint. Sleeveless drop-shoulder jacket and deconstructed outerwear try to challenge the traditional principle. The flowing silhouette design is fused with abstract printed patterns and self-fabric straps. Classic brand elements are integrated into the theme to express royalty. Black halter-neck vest, outerwear and shorts are filled with the bravery of young warriors. Ami Alexandre Mattiussi — The S/S 2022 collection L’Échappée Belle brought by the founder and designer Alexandre Mattiussi leads us to a childlike and mysterious amusement park. The boys in this surreal space are interpreting a romantic night journey and their carefree attitude.
Lemaire S/S 2022 collection presents the peaceful, soft, lightweight and informal elegancy, which is daily and relaxing. The light fabrics in gentle saturated tones are integrated with the unique and personalized concept of multi-functional wardrobe to meet different situations and people. The artworks of African American artist Joseph Yoakum are printed on basic light silk and cotton textiles.
The designer of Jil Sander, Luke Meier took us back to the early 1990s through the Eclecticism and individualization of New York street style. Pale yellow, pale blue, mint, pink, lilac, pale orange, sage green, tobacco brown and hot cocoa are edge-cutting and sensitive. Inspired by every corner of street, improvisation allows all the details to be casual.