As consumers pursue the improvement of life quality, delicacy and elegance become important. Sustainable fashion drives the exploration of exquisite and durable details to be a mainstream. Traditional handicrafts become an important form of clothing details. Delicacy and craftsmanship return back, and weaving will mix with femininity to create fashionable items.
In addition to press-pleating, dense or sparse pleating, or the direction of cutting creates 3D textures, enhances the visual impact, and brings the aesthetics of crafts.
In A/W 21/22, quilted fabrics of puffa jackets get thinner, which is a key trend. With the upgrade of materials, statement-making quilting detail shows unique charm. Irregular artistic stitches echo the orderly geometric cutting, with mixed materials and color-blocking for a new visual feel.
Fringe is a common way to add details, making the simple style more casual. And fringes get thinner and thinner, which is an evident trend and guides the direction of women’s leather and fur.
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The plague leads to the combination of work and life. The compulsive change of life habit allows “stay-at-home-economy” to rise quickly. “Stay-at-home-economy” refers to working or doing business at home while consuming at home, including telecommuting, online shopping, social community, take-out life, entertainment videos, online games, online education and financial management. Influenced by these trends, clothing collocation is also changing.
The tough suit is paired with the soft cape-style knitwear which brings a warm and cosy home feel. They complement each other to show the integration of the tough and the soft.
The knitted pullover is a main item in this kind of clothing collocation. The knitted vest is warm and eye-catching, with a pair of sporty hiking boots and soft stockings to display the new travel look.
The long shirt, the dress and knitwear are layered match with comfortable knitted trousers, displaying the relaxing and lethargic life style.
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With the improvement of people’s living standards and consumption awareness, it has become an important trend to escape from the city and embrace nature. Currently, we have to stay at home because of the outbreak, and it’s a good time to learn and recharge ourselves. And we can also know about how to travel outdoors responsibly and to be more fashionable when wearing outdoor clothing. A comfortable jacket is key to outdoors. The hooded jacket, the pullover jacket and the stand-collar jacket combine the neat cutting with rich colors, bringing more diversified design language to jackets.
Rich color-blocking is always an important design element for the loose and comfortable hooded jacket. The North Face and Peak Performance use low-key color-blocking and diversified accessories to heighten the feature of outdoor brands. Chinese brands like CROQUIS and OVERPROTECTION have become important with their unique features and trend-following steps. Besides, the classic sports brands, Adidas and Nike, still make efforts on outdoor clothing.
Protectiveness has always been an important direction for outdoor jackets. With a zipper on the collar, the pullover jacket has been a fashionable item. Spyder and Givenchy use strip decorations as design elements, with rich colors to bring an energetic and unruly feel. Blue Marble, The North Face and Shangmuye mainly use small-scale color-blocking, with diversified cutting and layered details to make the jacket more sportif and individual.
The stand-collar jacket is favored by consumers with its neat silhouette. In the new season, color-blocking is a critical design direction for stand-collar jackets. NIKE, Lilbetter and Rico Lee apply color-blocking of black, white and grey, with placement bright colors to add unique charm to the style. Tommy Sport and KENZO adopt large-scale deep blue and white, placement warm color blocks, and irregular cutting. NikeLab ACG and Alexandra Moura use mainly multiple color blocks, displaying the free and casual side of stand-collar jackets.
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Every season, designers will splice different fabrics with novel designs to bring different visual effects and hand feelings. Compared with spliced structures, A/W 20/21 pays more attention to fabrics. Retro and luxurious velvet and corduroy make a contrast with sportswear fabrics or knitted fabrics. Fleece will be expressed by new fabrics. Splicing different materials adopts a wider range of fabrics, like denim, suede, wool and woven shirts.
With the return of the retro style, rough corduroy and shining velvet come back. They are spliced with other materials to weaken the retro feel. CROQUIS and Z Zegna splice materials like knitted sweatshirt fabric or water-proof sportswear fabric on plackets and sleeves to bring a luxurious touch and vision.
Splicing denim with check shirt brings a visual illusion. E.Tautz splices denim and cotton to add denim strips to the clothing, bringing a stripe-like effect. Greg Lauren deconstructs the splicing of different materials, and MINEDENIM splices casual trousers with denim waistband, quite statement-making.
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According to data analysis of TOP 100 downloaded men’s overcoats in March, the fashion leisure style grows by 5%, and business leisure takes up the second place. This month the market also pays attention to rune arts. For patterns, the classic check is dominant splicing dominates crafts.
According to the TOP 10 styles (From left to right are 1-5, 6-10.), the checked overcoat holds 4 styles in the TOP 10. For silhouettes, the turn-down collar, the hooded style and lapel design are dominant. Burberry which tops the list splices khaki and white, with a water-proof zipper and drawstring to enhance the functionality and the chic feel.
The hooded design is both fun and genteel. gxg jeans applies a Chinese dragon embroidery, and combines letter and pattern to enhance the charm and appeal. HUGO combines toggles with the hood, showing a preppy style.
Enhanced voluminous feel, magnified proportion and pockets or stacked layers decorated by reflective strips are modern and classic, easily switching between commute and daily.
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The suit is synonymous with gentleman, elegance and taste. As fastidious styles become public focus, detail design is also noticed. The creative lining meets business men’s demands to cater to the young market. The finely made facing and lining make the suit superior. The functional inside pocket makes the lining more functional. The color-blocked pipping, panel and beaded edge are statement-making. Exquisite jacquard in the lining breaks the monotony and becomes the non-negligible detail in S/S 2021.
The most direct function of facing is to support the pocket and bear the weight of items in the pocket. Currently, there are various facing designs, with straight and arc facing dominant. The wide and narrow facing is fun. Panels and prick stitch are color-blocked, displaying the combination of modernity and convention. The overlocking of Zara starts from a brand-new perspective.
The half-lined suit is lightweight, breathable and crisp, suitable for spring and summer. The lining is mainly decorated by similar colors. There are various lining designs, such as the lining from hemline to sleeves, one fourth or three fourths half-lining in the back. Color-blocked lining is also prominent in recent seasons and will become an important design element in the next season. Leopard print, ombre and animal embroidery can also be used as new design points to open the young market of business leisure suits.
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As knitwear gets more ready-to-wear and consumers increasingly pursue high-quality clothing, traditional embroidery gains more attention. In A/W 21/22, embroidery pays more attention to the color contrast with the knitwear body, different combined elements, the combination with other crafts and handmade embroidery effect, bringing a simple yet chic visual feeling.
Color-blocked letters, as well as integrating floral and stripe into letters are recommended. Machine embroidery can well control the pattern effect, displaying the combined multiple elements.
Fine hand-embroidery enriches the expression forms. Color-blocking on placement is exquisite. Hot florals as main patterns are mostly applied to the neckline, hemline and cuffs, making a sharp contrast with the knitwear body.
Emphasizing edges is a key design of knitwear. When yarns are turned into hand-made overlocking, color-blocking, asymmetric design and silhouette are emphasized. The rough visual impact displays the aesthetics of handicraft.
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