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Fendi released its latest A/W 2022 womenswear collection on February 23, 2022. Kim Jones drew inspirations from seeing Delfina Delettrez in the Rome office wearing a blouse of Silvia Venturini’s from a 1986 Fendi collection by Karl Lagerfeld. He combined those references with a callback to another Lagerfeld-designed Fendi collection for spring 2000, one with a delicacy in direct opposition to the blousy proportions of the ’86 show. The graceful, rebellious, and light designs broke the classic conventions. Slip dresses, ruffled gauze tops and dresses exuded a feminine temperament and offered a lithe experience in S/S.
Desaturated pastels are widely applied in this season to bring a fresh and tender palette. Steady A/W colors as pale gray, black, and brown are also infused into the looks.
The full hue of gentle pink creates a warm and romantic mood through translucent gauze and soft fur. Lithe ruffles and drawstrings are more recommended to reflect the sweetness.
Minimalist neutral gray brings minimalist textures and a tranquil feeling. The combination with fluent tailoring creates neat urban looks, while tonal coordinates are even more elevated.
FENG CHEN WANG is a London designer brand founded by the Chinese designer Fengchen Wang in 2015. The graduate of London’s Royal College of Art was listed as the semi-finalists of the LVMH Prize 2016. Her freedom-oriented attitude and researches on menswear structures create a pioneering aesthetic. Inspired by the personal life tracks, FENG CHEN WANG presents both practicality and the sense of designing.
Brand logos are presented on garments through embroidery, 3D embellishments, and appliques, which enriches the visual effect and strengthens the brand identity.
Deconstruction is the signature of FENG CHEN WANG. Smart fake necklines and waistbands express personality and reflect the design aesthetic of the designer.
Metallic accessories are added into minimalist silhouettes to break the monotony and elevate the qualities.
Inspired by Jack Kerouac’s novel On the Road, Kim Jones released DIOR MEN Fall 2022 collection in London on December, 9, exploring the imagination of literature and fashion. On the Road(1957) is the best novel that can reflect the Hippies and the Beat generation in 60s. The new collection drew inspiration from the avant-garde spirit in last century’s America, and fused classic Dior’s heritage with futuristic crafts for updating.
Formal dresses, casual wear, and active styles were all paired together in this season to create looks that are suitable for both daily life and going-out. Mix-and-match also celebrated the theme of this collection, translating literature through the language of couture.
Check was brought to the forefront this season. Color changes and bias-cut injected newness into the classic checked elements. DIOR paired different checked garments with sequined neckties for the elegant image of gentlemen, which caught the fashion trend and nodded to the classics.
The painted images were adapted from the cover graphics of Kerouac’s posthumously published novel, Visions of Cody, to interpret the new perspective of crafts and culture. Leather motorcycle jacket is decorated by patterns in bright colors to feel a modern touch.
Inspired by the language of evening dressing, a vocabulary of scintillation. Joyous and optimistic, the Miu Miu Nuit collection features embro-idered and embellished clothes, accessories and shoes reminders of parties. The photos of actresses Ever Anderson, Ciara Bravo, and KiKi Layne represent the images of independent women and the records of Miu Miu community.
Heavy-industry crystals always represent luxury and prosperous economy, and also foresee the prevalence of extravagant fashion. Influenced by unsettled epidemic situation, people are limited from parties, banquets, and meetings. The brand, therefore, uses rhinestones and diamond tassels on daywear to awaken people’s desire for party.
Lustrous fabrics have revived, signaling people’s rebellion and protest against the natural disasters. High-class ball dresses remind people of golden era of top-class luxuries and dazzling shines. Shiny sequins are presented on daily silhouettes to create elevated entry-lux qualities.
Knitwear is an important category for this collection. Pastel pinks and purples are taken as the main tone, while clear sky blue is also an essential complementary color. In details, puff sleeves, ruffles, embroideries, and stripes have been the highlights of knitwear.
The wide use of 3D decorations shows ingenious ideas when creating sweet, cute, chic, and innovative kidswear. This report collects and introduces six must-have 3D crafts for development: bowknot and ruffle exude sweet romance on forms and materials; fringed edges are shown more on streetwear with personality; styling decorations and dolls allow kidswear to be naughty and funny; hand-made florals are mainly used to present details and patterns.
Bowknots are highly fused with the structures and styling of garments and interpret delicacy. Different sizes of bows are used as joints and placement decorations to reveal the unique cuteness and romance. Besides, bows are also available for the deconstructed tailoring.
The wide use of ruffles on kidswear shows active and agile wavy curves. The ruffles on different positions can create sweet and lovely, sweet and cool, or even fairy romantic styles. The three-dimensional ruffles on kidswear exude an enriched vital atmosphere.
Fringed design has been noteworthy for kidswear design in recent years. The fringed effects brought by accessory splicing, fabric finishes, and knitted jacquard create fashionable streetwear with personality.
Overcoat is always a noteworthy item in autumn and winter, and the traditional silhouettes have been redesigned and evolved. The overcoat silhouette in A/W 22/23 mainly remains the tradition and presents a fashionable and minimalist feel. Detail design on waist and dressing layers are the key points. Loose A-line coat, versatile O-line coat, comfortable mock-layered coat, belted bathrobe-style coat, and neat H-line coat add decorative languages to the silhouettes.
The A-line silhouette is used widely in kidswear design. The silhouette that doesn’t cinch waist and hip presents high inclusiveness, which is suitable for a wide range of ages. This elegant and a little bit naughty design creates an innocent and active atmosphere.
The neat tailoring and details of H-line overcoat are friendly to most body shapes, which is also able to layered with many other items. In colors, the matching of basic tones is comfortable and steady, while the multi-colored plaid can enliven the autumn and winter.
O-line overcoat, also known as cocoon overcoat, has no clear shoulder lines and shows a loose body, which exudes a comfortable, casual and also active effect. Besides, the loose shape of cocoon overcoat also feels laid-back and free. Its unisex and handsome temperament strengthens the thermal performance and sends out an elegant aura. The soft fabrics and flexible outlines provide high plasticity, and belts can be used to transfer the O-line silhouette into X-line.
Tweed was once widely used as the fabric of menswear in Britain, and the fashion master Coco Chanel integrated it into the womenswear design later. Changes of yarns and the mix of different materials and colors present rich textures. As the classic of CHANEL, tweed suit shows an entry-lux style. After an entire century, tweed uses wool as the material instead of the original twill structure. With the constant development and innovation of spinning and yarn, tweed fabric still keeps its elegancy and provides women with vogue and gracefulness. This report will demonstrate the recommended styles and materials for A/W 22/23 tweed through the introduction of fancy yarn, sequined tweed, checked texture, monochrome plain and inlaid ribbon.
Yarn Material: Common fancy yarns include slub yarn, knot yarn, color yarn and tape yarn. With the upgradation of spinning technology, fiber material tends to use the blending of cotton, viscose and polyester staple. The development of glossy viscose and nylon provides more possibilities for fancy yarns. And the non-woven yarn can be doubled with fancy yarns or twisted(knotted) itself to broaden the appearance and shape.
Developing Trend: Such fabric pays more attention to the expression of appearance and raw materials with high cost-efficiency. The change of fancy yarn has been the key developing point. Except for the mentioned common skills, multi-color design has also been a new trend. Besides, variable fancy yarns can be paired with doubled yarns with different twists as well.
Fancy yarn fabrics show abundant colors and elegant cuteness. The rich textures and layers of fabric are suitable for minimalist and elegant styles. Pale dress and suit jacket fit entry-lux ladies. Pale yarns can be added into dark fancy yarns to make the fabric more youthful and breathable. The style in suit is more suitable for mature women.
Texture & Material: The rough appearance of tweed is combined with sequins to strengthen the dimensional feel. The stylish and dazzling colors allow tweed to be more luxurious. Sequins with contrast colors and extravagant colorful slub yarns are combined with plain weave or twill to create the woolen fabric of coat. Pure wool and the blend of wool, acrylic fiber and polyester are selected as the material. Same-colored sequins and high-viscosity viscose yarn are paired with basic structures to develop dress fabric.
Developing Suggestion: The key developing point of this fabric is the selection of sequined yarn and the combination and recreation of sequined yarn and fancy yarn.
Court-style wedding dress owns a thick romantic, fairy atmosphere, which is gorgeous and fantastic. We can feel both the reserve of girls and the aura of queen. This report will chase for the Baroque luxury in the court. Heavy-industrial wedding dress is paired with dramatic embellish-ments to create an impressive artistic impact.
Detachable decorations is added to the neck and shoulder parts of wedding dress. Beads and diamonds are rather retro and gorgeous. The properly exposed skin at front chest looks like wearing artworks. Wandering between elegant romance and mature charm, the wearer can be both dignified and pretty.
Crinkles are added to the shoulder part to create the effect of gigot sleeve. The volume brought by unique fabric is really eye-catching, while the lightweight sleeve also shows conflict with the body. The pairing with V-neck allows the general look to be more formal and retro, revealing the momentum of classical European royals.
The upper part shows the inflated effect of lantern sleeve, and delicate embellishments are decorated on the tightened cuffs. The selection of fabric is rather important. The different rhythms brought by 3D volume and fabric can better gather the sight lines.
Tassel design is extended from the handcrafted style. Cut tassels, napped tassels and knitted tassels improve the value of nomadic items. Tasseled details can elevate the design of T-shirt, sweatshirt and suit. Rhinestone tassels are added into urban business suits to meet the need of entry-luxury. Sweatshirt and T-shirt are combined with dazzling colorful tassels to create the individualized street fashion.
Laser cutting and handmade tailoring divide fabrics into even stripes to form agile tassels. Self fabric is mainly used to show the perfect unity of material and color.
Napped tassel has been a signature for CHANEL. The untrimmed napping presents a delicate handcrafted visual effect. Such design is mainly applied on the pocket edges and clothing outlines. In this year, napped ribbons are also integrated into the design, and these colorful lines enrich the minimalist items.
Hand-knitted tassel is an important detail for nomadic and vacation items. The geometric hollows brought by handmade knots enrich the visual layers of tassel. The same-tone hand-knitted tassels on the hemline of cotton vest are paired with jeans to provide a wild image of western cowboys.
In the era of overloaded information, our senses are easy to get tired and hungry. So we need the stimulation from all aspects to awake our-selves, which can reach the bottom of heart and explore the deep space of awareness. Savor Vintage colors, shapes, tactility and tastes can all become the carrier of emotions. The psychedelic visual effect of Op Art leads graphic design to a mental and spatial level. Cross-sense designs connect the sensory system. The ultimate joy of Radiant and Colorful penetrates into the inner sense through visual effect. Digital art and haptics are combined to transfer luxurious decoration and complicated expression into value attitude.
Nostalgic fashion, youth popular culture and retro styles lead the coming back of bright neutral colors. Naughty warm colors and modern cold colors are involved in the trend as well. Bright Rose(PANTONE 18-1945TPG), Beaujolais(PANTONE 18-2027TPG) and Avocado(PAN-TONE 18-0430) create individualized color blocks, and the tonal combina-tion can elevate the mood connection brought by emotional colors.
The strong contrast and conflict brought by high-saturation bright colors accentuate the intense visual tension. The tonal combination of Fuchsia Pink and Bright Rose can elevate the mood connection brought by emotional colors. Classic Anthracite and Flame Scarlet are added into to palette to present a flamboyant and full visual feast.
Abstracted from the unique visual effect of rose petal, Bright Rose is combined with retro silhouette, textured accessories and lustrous mate-rials to make the color vivid and layered. Tone-on-tone colorway provides a fascinating visual feast.