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German fashion brand Jil Sander was officially purchased by Only the Brave on March 7,2021, joining in the groups of Diesel, Maison Margiela, Marni, Viktor & Rolf, Staff international and Brave Kid. The A/W 21/22 Jil Sander collection was presented online, and the campaign was shot in a hotel in Le Marais. Lucie and Luke Meier remain as creative directors. This collection has clinical significance that can prove our current crisis mode. Long gloves have an operable sense. And they are made of leather without liner and medical crayon, which can make people think of the current epidemic. Monochrome leather trousers use crinkles to produce the emotion of operation. Jil Sander conveys the Purism boldly through direct outerwear and dress, hand-spun dress with tassels and charming underwear dress with lace. Large and gorgeous overall silhouette of this collection hopes people to feel better, and to feel their own power and strength.
Lace underwear dress can better underline women’s lines and charm under the Purism frame. The more frequent design lines present a more free attitude, which is modern yet formal.
Large-scale black & white butterfly silhouette is added into soft and smooth silk fabric, romantic, fantastic and charming. Lucie and Luke Meier still pay attention to the structure and linear silhouette to build new neck details.
Craft form has a close relationship with the science development. And with the development of VR technique, many brands start to combine reality and virtuality for clothes manufacturing and marketing. Light and Shade, which presents indistinct visual effect, is under great attention. Various social concepts can lead to various craft applications. People’s stronger environment awareness causes the recreation of worn-out clothes. Repurposed remakes the garments and creates more unique products. And people are still pursuing 3D clothes texture and natural delicacy. 3D sunray pleat and shirring are popular this season. Keywords such as environment, three dimensional and technology will influence the craft trend of A/W 22/23 and also imply designers that they can realize the brand value through crafts.
With the development of internet and 5G, many brands are trying digital clothes. And it is used widely among marketing and communicating designs. The pattern of light and shade is the combination of virtuality and reality. There are two expressions to present this effect. The first one is to shoot patterns on white shirt and background through projector. And the second is to use digital printing to present light and shade patterns.
Millennials pay more and more attention to environmental protection, and major brands also reuse and redesign materials. Many brands redesign the worn-out clothes in A/W 22/23. They adjust the silhouette and take advantage of the original structure to make tailoring. Worn-out clothes is combined through blind stitch or weaving to show deconstruction aesthetics. This method also solve the clothing inventory problem.
Distressed stitch can enrich the details. And there are many crafts to present this effect. The first craft is that you can splice the fabrics without edge sealing, and take the inside as the outside. The second one is suturing the positioning yarn. Two kinds of yarn are available. The one is to use the yarn made of the main fabric to show unity. And the other one is to use additional material to provide contrast.
ANDERSSON BELL is a Korean famous designer leisurely brand founded in 2014. This brand owns the sensibility of North Europe and focuses on the brand value of slow fashion. ANDERSSON BELL is good at integrating past and present, tradition and fashion. It also blends all the street, art and culture elements to state its theme of dressing freedom. Most items are presented in unisex style. Different from other gender-free design brands, the unisex style of ANDERSSON BELL is more practical. It breaks through the border of gender and body shape. The North European slow aesthetic is also injected into the updating styling, which endows clothes with cultural connotation and value and creates high-quality fashionable clothes.
Suit item is presented through unisex style. And the craft texture injects a fashionable sense into the commercial unisex suit. Division and dropped shoulder details rebuild the traditional formal clothes. The structural appearance made by division and the asymmetric waistband break through the traditional convention and bring unique styles.
Knit is updated through loose silhouette and colors. Combining the traditional knit with the modern street elements, raw-edge and skip stitch processes can show the distressed effect, sending out the charm of items.
Sticking to the unisex design, short-sleeve printed shirt with fresh contrast-colored patterns sends out the North European style. Tie-dyed stripe&check with embroidered flowers combines tradition with fashion. Checked and carved shirt has a thick classical feeling and creates classical street temperament.
We live in the familiar city, drink coffee, look out of the window and observe the people passing by. It seems that we are lonely, but we find solace here. We are obsessed with this subtle urban loneliness. We appear languid, but are determined to find ourselves. We are into the society, but still are calm urban bystanders.
1. GreenMonster Lab is a new multi-functional space in Beijing designed to provide relaxation moments for stressed urbanites. The designer explains that when people are tired, they can come to the space, appreciate art works, enjoy the latest exhibition, taste food and then sit down to experience a quieter and slower life. 2. Luxury brand stores are currently designed for simplicity and modesty. Two shops opened recently, The Row in London and Toteme’s first boutique in Stockholm, exemplify this trend. They allow people to experience the calmness, simplicity and imperfect perfection. 3. There is hardly any trace of trendiness in the French fashion magazine ENCES, and it always upholds simplicity and classics.
They enjoy art, comfort of life and experience of products. They like reading and the feeling of papers with fingers. They do not follow the crowd and pursue elevated basic design. They often visit art areas, and spiritual value is their biggest motivation for consumption.
The post-80s and post-90s are the group who first contact and become the most enthusiastic about arcade games. In 1971, the world’s first arcade was born in a computer laboratory in the United States, originating in bars. With a history of 38 years, arcade game is the oldest video game. Although arcade games fade in the rapidly changes of video games, their grainy pixel images dominate the childhood memories of those born in the 1980s and 1990s.
Arcade games remind of the surrounding streets. Supreme and Agnes use the soft focus effect to present the retro streets of the 1970s-1990s. The lettered lamp is also the classical element of current Chinese fashion.
The familiar mosaic game interface can be used to clothing as placement patterns, bringing a dazzling and retro feeling.
Because of the outbreak, antibacterial and protective fabrics are being snapped up by major medical manufacturers. Exercise and immunity will become the focus of S/S 2021, and people will pay more attention to improving their immune system through various sports. This season the knitted fabric will tend to be more protective and functional, and become water-proof, antibacterial, comfortable and luxurious to be all-weather and durable.
Matte Dryness and Comfort
This quick-dry jersey is always matte, adding an exquisite feel to the sportif style. Light tones with low saturation can further enhance the effect. The dry and comfortable touch highlights the matte surface of smooth fabrics. It is also moisture-wicking.
Panels in a solid color or pairing soft tones with brights are used to create a fluent silhouette and create a modern youthful style. Seams and stitched edges are folded to weaken the stitch. It is suitable for the dress, knitwear and the set.
The TOP list of women’s trench coats is ranked by downloading data of POP users. The lady style and the young lady style take up the leading part, 42%. The leisure style is the second, 28%. The third is 18% of workwear style trench coats, mainly fashion brands. In terms of silhouette, practical H-line is the main part, 38%. The following is X-line showing the waist, 20%. And A-line accounts for 12%. Apart from usual crafts like splicing and deconstruction, drawstring accounts for 18%.
The TOP list of women’s trench coats is ranked by downloading data of POP users (From the left to right is 1-5, 6-10.). Styles for autumn and winter hold 60%, and spring and summer hold 40%. H-line is the main. Splicing still takes the largest part of craft, 30%. Splicing different colors is dominant. Deconstruction is mostly applied to side seams and the front. Drawstring is mainly applied to the waist or under the gun flap.
Splicing color-blocked fabrics is dominant. The contrast of color brightness becomes the focus. Deconstruction is used. The shape and length of spliced part makes a contrast with the overall silhouette. Strongly contrasting trench coats become the representative of individuality.
Protective high-neck is added to trench coats. Throat tabs are linked with the collar by zipper, buttons, adjustable buttons and snap fastener, highlighting the utility of trench coats. The gun flap is worth attention. Splicing, layering and press-pleating are applied to the gun flap to make trench coats practical, neat and clean.
Glossy fabric is the main fabric for trench coats. Some styles are decorated by shirring or splicing. The fabric of trench coats and draping pleats make a layered sense. Shirring needs much attention. Press-pleating shows the voluminous sense of sleeves.
For A/W 20/21, panelling is key. In this season, feminism, technology, electronics, naturalism and utilitarianism influence panelling. Shiny fabrics, cargo styling and structural lines are emphasized.
With the development of technology and electronics, electronic tones and shiny fabrics gain traction. Lightweight shiny fabric, tinfoil-like texture and neon colors are combined with irregular and asymmetric details to create a futuristic style.
The lines at the bust and waist is emphasizes thanks to the comeback of femininity. Panelling at those places creates a soft feminine aesthetic.
The body structure is emphasized for panelling this season. Stitches, zippers and velcro tapes create a linear aesthetic.
Color Panelling is focused on the shoulder seams. Contrast colors add interest and vibrancy.
The panelling within the utility workwear style shows a fragmenting effect. Multiple cargo pockets and sheers renew cargo styling. Different lengths enhance utilitarianism.
Raw panelling is more underlined. The industrial greyed checks and denim are combined with the trench coat. The defective effect and fraying add a natural effect.
As an item with a history of over a century but still popular, the trench coat is the classic representative of elegant and meaningful temperament. It is beautiful, versatile and graceful. So it is an important thing to have a chic and graceful trench coat in autumn and winter. Now let’s have a look at new collocation trends for the trench coat.
When styled with pants, it is neat and casual and the drawstring can accentuate form. At the same time, with a hairband and a sportif bag, the entire look is beautiful and eye-catching.
The versatile trench coat matching a skirt is suitable for southern girls, and in the meanwhile, the mixing of skirt and sweatshirt is warm and cool.
The microstructures like attached panels and the cutting or the misaligned design in the placket, matching a simple and stand-up collar knitwear, is designer style and added by thigh boots, is cool and charming.
With some fine details like workwear pockets and multiple row buttons, the mid-length trench coat and the retro check shirt show exquisite and retro style.
The trench coat with strong sense of draping and pleating mostly match draping style skirt, a silk chiffon blouse and a pair of tipped fish-scale shoes. The entire look sweeps off the heaviness with clear layers and slim-highlighting visual impact.
Cardigans are versatile in every season. Resort 2020 cardigans are worn over other items. Simple designs and a range of colors are key. Cardigans can be matched with shirts, T-shirts, dresses, suits and coats. Color blocks, craft techniques and patterns are applied into cardigans in resort 2020.
The share of cardigans increased on A/W 2019 catwalks. In addition to soft and sweet colors and ready-to-wear garments, skirts and accessories are accentuated.
Elegant tones are soft and tranquil. Densely arranged buttons, delicate fringing and diagonal closures on solid cardigans are appealing.
We always emphasize “Point”, “Line” and “Plane”. Contrast colors, jacquard colored lines, contrast stitches are widely applied to cardigans.
“Line” and “plane” are often mixed. Bright colors renew cardigans. The application of color blocks are more popular in this season.
Patterns on the back play an important role. Refreshing solid colors on the front piece are impressive, and the patterns on the back piece are surprising. Simple jacquard patterns are recommended.
Cardigans in resort 2020 go in a youthful direction. Playful appliques are interesting. Modern illustration-style appliques are key.
Florals are vibrant and energetic. They are used for jacquard patterns on cardigans. Color blocks are accentuated to add vibrancy.
Thick knitted pieces and simple stitches are applied to cardigans. Asymmetry, color blocking and patterns are combined with stitches to create hot items in resort 2020.
Hip-length cardigans accentuate form, and they are playful and leisure. Letters and jacquard landscapes bring vibrancy. Colors are much bolder.