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Consumers pay more attention to the balance between individualized designs and elevated textures in S/S 2023. These details of apparel can lift the value and the sense of design, which is the key this season. Designers fuse clothes with new design languages, and more exquisite details can affect the general style and endow clothing with more characteristics.
Voluminous layers focus on the design of tailoring pieces. Pleating and shirring provide layered crinkles to womenswear and show playful-ness. Except for being used to upgrade the general silhouette, crinkles are also decorated on sleeves, shoulders, and waist to make basics more fashionable and eye-catching.
To meet the unique aesthetic of being subtle, the considered selection and tailoring of fabric presents blank-leaving designs with visual tension. Stretchy fabrics can better express the tension, while the all-matching cutouts are suitable for both delicate and casual styles. The blank space brought by knitted fabrics and crocheting endows luxurious qualities without extra decorations.
The interpretation of vintage bustier has been the representative detail for sexy, sweet looks. This Medieval detail can better stress wearers’ body curves and exude the gorgeousness of the court. Skintight bustier provides strong visual tension through its fan-shaped extension from waistline to chest. Short-length bustier pays attention to the exquisite design of form, while the selection of fabric can also bring newness.
Christian Dior S/S 2022 ready-to-wear fashion show was held in the Paris Tuileries Garden on September 28. Maria Grazia Chiuri approached Anna Pararatti to conceive the show’s scenography in an absurdist spirit reflecting the universe of her various works. Pop and game have been the core of this 60’s runway. The collection is structured around a network of associations as Maria Grazia Chiuri explores Marc Bohan’s long tenure as Creative Director of Dior. More precisely, she highlights the Slim Look collection, presented in 1961. A-line doll dress, mini Dior suit, 60s optical white dress and tennis dress; color-blocking outerwear and dress; orange and green boxing suit; golden fringed mini dress all awaken and overpass the elegant classics of Dior.
Game is the core element of this runway. Inspired by the board games, the palette of Christian Dior creates dazzling, flamboyant, artist and fun colors. Celandine, Island Green, Marzipan and Oriole group a bold colorway and present the playfulness of games.
The Slim Look collection, presented in 1961 by Marc Bohan, was described by the fashion press as follows: “It completely changes fashion, just as the New Look did in 1947.” In this season, Maria Grazia Chiuri once again inherited and nodded to the classic. The use of high-satu-ration palette created avant-garde and bold modern looks.
Tonal sport suits mix baseball shirts, boxing shorts, sport underwear with trench coat. Nylon and diving fabrics are used to adapt to multiple occasions. The matching with 60’s Go-go Boots interprets an alternatively elegant image of Dior lady.
Tassel design is extended from the handcrafted style. Cut tassels, napped tassels and knitted tassels improve the value of nomadic items. Tasseled details can elevate the design of T-shirt, sweatshirt and suit. Rhinestone tassels are added into urban business suits to meet the need of entry-luxury. Sweatshirt and T-shirt are combined with dazzling colorful tassels to create the individualized street fashion.
Laser cutting and handmade tailoring divide fabrics into even stripes to form agile tassels. Self fabric is mainly used to show the perfect unity of material and color.
Napped tassel has been a signature for CHANEL. The untrimmed napping presents a delicate handcrafted visual effect. Such design is mainly applied on the pocket edges and clothing outlines. In this year, napped ribbons are also integrated into the design, and these colorful lines enrich the minimalist items.
Hand-knitted tassel is an important detail for nomadic and vacation items. The geometric hollows brought by handmade knots enrich the visual layers of tassel. The same-tone hand-knitted tassels on the hemline of cotton vest are paired with jeans to provide a wild image of western cowboys.
The latest A/W 2021 collection of the niche Japanese brand Cycle by M.Y.O.B. was titled as Skin Ship, which tried to revoke the touching between people during the spread of epidemic. The nude color with fine tactility expresses a delicate street fashion. Sustainable eco leather and fur are applied to the avant-garde streetwear to exude the new luxurious feel of ecology. Soft eco fur and plant-dyed nylon endow peaceful colors with warm textures. The first collaboration with the Russian artist Kiristina Tuzova brought hand-painted illustrations that surpassed the boundaries of race and gender. The bold and flamboyant visual effect is rather impressive.
The material of this season echoes the concept of Skin Ship. Lightweight gauze is used to expose the skin indistinctly. The painted portraits of artist are combined with tight-fit tailoring to interpret the concept of Second Skin.
Signature street items as sweatshirt and shirt are mixed with leather pants and straight corduroy pants. Artistic illustrations are added to shirt to exude the clear fashion attitude. Eco-friendly fur is layered with nude sweatshirt to express the new luxurious feel of ecology through the avant-garde and delicate street fashion.
The loose silhouettes of crewneck pullover sweatshirt are cozy and rebellious. Individualized prints are decorated on the chest, and the signature curvy tailoring expresses the attitude of street fashion.
Yueqi Qi is an eponymous designer brand founded in 2010, and it is also one of the best developing designer brands in China. A graduate of Central Saint Martins, Qi has been worked for CHANEL, DIOR, BALENCIGA and GIVENCHY. The brand is committed to inheriting Chinese traditional elements and combining Chinese handicraft with individualized designs. Emotional stories are told through dramatic expressions. Beading and weaving crafts are the brand features, which maintains the couture concept. A/W 21/22 collection Remember the Fairchild is a story of love, admiration and respect for Yueqi’s husband’s family and the family airline they owned. From an outsider’s perspective, Yueqi relives the memories, distorted by time and second-hand information. It’s an idealized memory, revisionist history, and a restoration of cultural artifacts pieced together from conversations, newspaper clippings, 8mm reels, and old photographs.
Improved Cheongsam remains the Chinese surplice stand-collar, eye-catching beads and plate buttons, and loose waist. The slant-tailored ruffled skirt ends below the hip. Teddy bear print, square kerchief and wrapped tailoring are integrated into the draped silk. Red&green dragon printed strap corset is layered with court-style puff sleeve shirt to present the cultural collision and subvert the traditional Chinese aesthetic.
Glass beading and weaving is the iconic craft of Yueqi Qi. Colorful heart-shaped bead fabric is the key point in every season. Beads of different sizes can present both romantic and wild styles. The injection of romantic flower pattern is gorgeous and vintage. Edgy corset, vest and dress items have high recognition.
Oriental roses are printed on the dark background. And the all-over application on plush texture warms the romantic autumn and winter. Modern tailored Cheongsam, slip dress and overcoat silhouettes are retro and stylish.
German fashion brand Jil Sander was officially purchased by Only the Brave on March 7,2021, joining in the groups of Diesel, Maison Margiela, Marni, Viktor & Rolf, Staff international and Brave Kid. The A/W 21/22 Jil Sander collection was presented online, and the campaign was shot in a hotel in Le Marais. Lucie and Luke Meier remain as creative directors. This collection has clinical significance that can prove our current crisis mode. Long gloves have an operable sense. And they are made of leather without liner and medical crayon, which can make people think of the current epidemic. Monochrome leather trousers use crinkles to produce the emotion of operation. Jil Sander conveys the Purism boldly through direct outerwear and dress, hand-spun dress with tassels and charming underwear dress with lace. Large and gorgeous overall silhouette of this collection hopes people to feel better, and to feel their own power and strength.
Lace underwear dress can better underline women’s lines and charm under the Purism frame. The more frequent design lines present a more free attitude, which is modern yet formal.
Large-scale black & white butterfly silhouette is added into soft and smooth silk fabric, romantic, fantastic and charming. Lucie and Luke Meier still pay attention to the structure and linear silhouette to build new neck details.
Craft form has a close relationship with the science development. And with the development of VR technique, many brands start to combine reality and virtuality for clothes manufacturing and marketing. Light and Shade, which presents indistinct visual effect, is under great attention. Various social concepts can lead to various craft applications. People’s stronger environment awareness causes the recreation of worn-out clothes. Repurposed remakes the garments and creates more unique products. And people are still pursuing 3D clothes texture and natural delicacy. 3D sunray pleat and shirring are popular this season. Keywords such as environment, three dimensional and technology will influence the craft trend of A/W 22/23 and also imply designers that they can realize the brand value through crafts.
With the development of internet and 5G, many brands are trying digital clothes. And it is used widely among marketing and communicating designs. The pattern of light and shade is the combination of virtuality and reality. There are two expressions to present this effect. The first one is to shoot patterns on white shirt and background through projector. And the second is to use digital printing to present light and shade patterns.
Millennials pay more and more attention to environmental protection, and major brands also reuse and redesign materials. Many brands redesign the worn-out clothes in A/W 22/23. They adjust the silhouette and take advantage of the original structure to make tailoring. Worn-out clothes is combined through blind stitch or weaving to show deconstruction aesthetics. This method also solve the clothing inventory problem.
Distressed stitch can enrich the details. And there are many crafts to present this effect. The first craft is that you can splice the fabrics without edge sealing, and take the inside as the outside. The second one is suturing the positioning yarn. Two kinds of yarn are available. The one is to use the yarn made of the main fabric to show unity. And the other one is to use additional material to provide contrast.
ANDERSSON BELL is a Korean famous designer leisurely brand founded in 2014. This brand owns the sensibility of North Europe and focuses on the brand value of slow fashion. ANDERSSON BELL is good at integrating past and present, tradition and fashion. It also blends all the street, art and culture elements to state its theme of dressing freedom. Most items are presented in unisex style. Different from other gender-free design brands, the unisex style of ANDERSSON BELL is more practical. It breaks through the border of gender and body shape. The North European slow aesthetic is also injected into the updating styling, which endows clothes with cultural connotation and value and creates high-quality fashionable clothes.
Suit item is presented through unisex style. And the craft texture injects a fashionable sense into the commercial unisex suit. Division and dropped shoulder details rebuild the traditional formal clothes. The structural appearance made by division and the asymmetric waistband break through the traditional convention and bring unique styles.
Knit is updated through loose silhouette and colors. Combining the traditional knit with the modern street elements, raw-edge and skip stitch processes can show the distressed effect, sending out the charm of items.
Sticking to the unisex design, short-sleeve printed shirt with fresh contrast-colored patterns sends out the North European style. Tie-dyed stripe&check with embroidered flowers combines tradition with fashion. Checked and carved shirt has a thick classical feeling and creates classical street temperament.
We live in the familiar city, drink coffee, look out of the window and observe the people passing by. It seems that we are lonely, but we find solace here. We are obsessed with this subtle urban loneliness. We appear languid, but are determined to find ourselves. We are into the society, but still are calm urban bystanders.
1. GreenMonster Lab is a new multi-functional space in Beijing designed to provide relaxation moments for stressed urbanites. The designer explains that when people are tired, they can come to the space, appreciate art works, enjoy the latest exhibition, taste food and then sit down to experience a quieter and slower life. 2. Luxury brand stores are currently designed for simplicity and modesty. Two shops opened recently, The Row in London and Toteme’s first boutique in Stockholm, exemplify this trend. They allow people to experience the calmness, simplicity and imperfect perfection. 3. There is hardly any trace of trendiness in the French fashion magazine ENCES, and it always upholds simplicity and classics.
They enjoy art, comfort of life and experience of products. They like reading and the feeling of papers with fingers. They do not follow the crowd and pursue elevated basic design. They often visit art areas, and spiritual value is their biggest motivation for consumption.
The post-80s and post-90s are the group who first contact and become the most enthusiastic about arcade games. In 1971, the world’s first arcade was born in a computer laboratory in the United States, originating in bars. With a history of 38 years, arcade game is the oldest video game. Although arcade games fade in the rapidly changes of video games, their grainy pixel images dominate the childhood memories of those born in the 1980s and 1990s.
Arcade games remind of the surrounding streets. Supreme and Agnes use the soft focus effect to present the retro streets of the 1970s-1990s. The lettered lamp is also the classical element of current Chinese fashion.
The familiar mosaic game interface can be used to clothing as placement patterns, bringing a dazzling and retro feeling.