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Fendi released its latest A/W 2022 womenswear collection on February 23, 2022. Kim Jones drew inspirations from seeing Delfina Delettrez in the Rome office wearing a blouse of Silvia Venturini’s from a 1986 Fendi collection by Karl Lagerfeld. He combined those references with a callback to another Lagerfeld-designed Fendi collection for spring 2000, one with a delicacy in direct opposition to the blousy proportions of the ’86 show. The graceful, rebellious, and light designs broke the classic conventions. Slip dresses, ruffled gauze tops and dresses exuded a feminine temperament and offered a lithe experience in S/S.
Desaturated pastels are widely applied in this season to bring a fresh and tender palette. Steady A/W colors as pale gray, black, and brown are also infused into the looks.
The full hue of gentle pink creates a warm and romantic mood through translucent gauze and soft fur. Lithe ruffles and drawstrings are more recommended to reflect the sweetness.
Minimalist neutral gray brings minimalist textures and a tranquil feeling. The combination with fluent tailoring creates neat urban looks, while tonal coordinates are even more elevated.
FENG CHEN WANG is a London designer brand founded by the Chinese designer Fengchen Wang in 2015. The graduate of London’s Royal College of Art was listed as the semi-finalists of the LVMH Prize 2016. Her freedom-oriented attitude and researches on menswear structures create a pioneering aesthetic. Inspired by the personal life tracks, FENG CHEN WANG presents both practicality and the sense of designing.
Brand logos are presented on garments through embroidery, 3D embellishments, and appliques, which enriches the visual effect and strengthens the brand identity.
Deconstruction is the signature of FENG CHEN WANG. Smart fake necklines and waistbands express personality and reflect the design aesthetic of the designer.
Metallic accessories are added into minimalist silhouettes to break the monotony and elevate the qualities.
Inspired by Jack Kerouac’s novel On the Road, Kim Jones released DIOR MEN Fall 2022 collection in London on December, 9, exploring the imagination of literature and fashion. On the Road(1957) is the best novel that can reflect the Hippies and the Beat generation in 60s. The new collection drew inspiration from the avant-garde spirit in last century’s America, and fused classic Dior’s heritage with futuristic crafts for updating.
Formal dresses, casual wear, and active styles were all paired together in this season to create looks that are suitable for both daily life and going-out. Mix-and-match also celebrated the theme of this collection, translating literature through the language of couture.
Check was brought to the forefront this season. Color changes and bias-cut injected newness into the classic checked elements. DIOR paired different checked garments with sequined neckties for the elegant image of gentlemen, which caught the fashion trend and nodded to the classics.
The painted images were adapted from the cover graphics of Kerouac’s posthumously published novel, Visions of Cody, to interpret the new perspective of crafts and culture. Leather motorcycle jacket is decorated by patterns in bright colors to feel a modern touch.
Denim Première Vision exhibition held its A/W 22/23 Digital Denim Week online to focus on the sustainable development. Recreation of recycled denim, functional fabric and best denim materials are the main topics of the exhibition. Influenced by the epidemic situation, there were 54 exhibitors and over 900 products involved in this online show. We can get the detailed content about the craft and color of denim fabric from the website of Première Vision, including Sourcing & Networking, Trends & Selections, and Webinars & Digital Talks.
Natural fibers, such as Lyocell, are used to create soft-touch fabrics instead of cotton. Lenzing’s Indigo Colour technique can directly apply indigo pigment to Tencel and Modal fibers, and the coloring process is finished through the one-stop dope dyeing. Besides, Denim Clothing Company is trying to using the natural fibers of corn to produce fabrics.
The data analysis is made on the knitted yarn, pattern and craft of CR 2022 womenswear runways. The yarn application of this season is variable. From plain fancy yarn to glossy yarn and plush yarn, different textures create diversified knitwear styles. In pattern design, stripe has become a noteworthy element, occupying 32%. Smart casual knitwear is increasingly using leopard prints. Stitching(42%) is still the most popular craft of knitwear, followed by eyelet texture(27%). Gloss is the key point of decorations, and decorative diamonds endow knitwear with a high-class entry-luxury feel.
The application of lightweight yarn makes CR women’s knitwear refreshing. Light and translucent knitwear increases the layers of clothing collocation. Stitching and color changes are added into skin-friendly yarns to strengthen the sense of design and fashion.
Gloss plays an important role in the design of women’s knitwear this season. These glossy sequined yarn and metallic yarn have been the key point. The combination with minimalist and basic silhouettes presents a high-class entry-luxury texture.
The application of fancy yarn brings a plain handcrafted feel. The color changes of yarn increase the sense of design of basic knitwear. Besides, detail design is also noteworthy. Placement eyelet stitching and neckline cutout are more delicate.
David Koma Resort 2022 collection built the sexy and nostalgic prosperousness which better fits the spotlighted night of 70’s disco ball. After a year of evolution, Koma has been flashy once again. Tied crystal mini-skirt, low-waist ultralong dress and lace shirtdress are the customized items for hot girls. The sunset outfits in orange and pale purple present exquisite tailoring. Comfortable sporty shirt and sweater are also integrated ingeniously into the collection. Signature rhinestone, sequin and cutout elements are combined with tied-up details and sculptural tailoring to stress the sexy curves. A swimsuit collection was also released. Rhinestone flowers and jewelry printing are decorated on bikini and dress to take Koma girls from disco ball to the swimming pool.
Practical daywear sweatshirt and denim items interpret the concept of being sexy and leisurely through patterns and collocations. Playful rhinestone flower is decorated on chest; water-drop sequin bustier is mixed with low-waist jeans; discharge-printed denim is cool and gentle; translucent long stockings exude a thick sexual appeal.
Rhinestone is a signature element for David Koma. Rhinestone flowers, draping tassels and geometric shapes are decorated in the placement of dress and bustier to underline the luxurious prosperousness.
Ties are used on high-position slitting instead of sewing to maximize the sexual appeal. The placement application on wild leather nightgown and high-waist flares is retro and high-class.
Economic globalization causes ecological crisis, which leads to a new normality. People are redefining the core of life, and searching for consolation from their family and friends or even an item. Therefore, healing and eco-friendly sustainable colors become the key. Saturated eye-catching colors present positive energy and provide contrast with dark hue. The lustre of metallic colors brings luxurious texture to this economic turmoil period.
Gentle pastel tone uses Loden Frost, Pale Banana and Egret to provide sweet feminine temperament with peacefulness. The combination with brown tone presents the understated theme of healing and romantic. Lustrous color is suitable for silk, while gentle color is suitable for lace, gauze and vintage woolen loungewear. Decorative Egret shows the vintage warm appearance and interprets the inner world of women.
Warm and healing Loden Frost connects human and the outer world. Its physical and mental healing function endows vitality, fixes broken hearts, cuts the extra volume and breaks through the dullness. New hope reconstructs consciousness in the cells of the body and prepares for a new beginning.
Delicate lace and silk are selected to interpret this warm and healing Loden Frost. The combination with Cream and Aztec presents classical romance. Straps and bowknots inject feminine temperament into this theme and create a vintage and healing sweet underwear collection.