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Due to COVID-19, S/S 2021 four major fashion weeks are held online and offline. S/S 2021 fashion weeks center on practicality, comfort and versatility, blurring the boundary between conventional luxury and leisure. Soft, flowing and practical solid fabrics make classic sets and suits more daily. As the core of female wardrobes, suits dominate. Undyed casual cotton and linen fabrics, lightweight TR fabrics and other comfortable fabrics find a place in conventional suits and make them more trans-seasonal. From S/S 2021 four major fashion weeks, we can see suits and sets are moving towards daily comfort.
According to statistics of S/S 2021 international womenswear catwalks, this season women’s suits and sets incline to be comfortable and practical, reflected by both designs and fabrics. Soft fabrics and layered match become top priorities. Practical and comfortable fabrics renew suits and sets. Casual cotton and linen with natural creases and fine textures, smooth and light TR fabrics become the first choice this season. Mini checks, smooth acetate fabrics, comfortable leather perfectly create S/S 2021 women’s suits and sets, simple yet elegant.
As a key part on S/S 2021 catwalks, casual cotton and linen reinforce the comfort trend through loose suits and sets. Natural creases and fine textures allow casual cotton and linen to recreate comfortable leisure suits. Suits made of cotton and linen in original and neutral colors respond to plain cutting trend on S/S 2021 womenswear catwalks.
S/S 2021 opens the future that suits can be comfortable and practical. This season TR fabrics become more lightweight and finer, adopt mainly muted neutral tones, take on a flat surface and smooth hand feel, and drape well. Their fine structures and soft tactility make sets and suits more trans-seasonal, further promoting comfort-first idea of S/S 2021 suits and sets.
Fendi S/S 2021 show is held in Milan as scheduled. La Famiglia, Fendi S/S 2021 collection, is inspired by family, the designer’s childhood and the family life during pandemic. Silvia says, “Time spent with family – descendants who raised together in Rome – prompts quiet introspection in a window or garden to watch the world go by.” Looking out from the inside, looking out from the outside, shadows and reflections are projected throughout the series. She explains the memory and thinking about the childhood, family and life. As for the setting, traditional elements and home life are mixed. The flowing white curtain is ethereal. The wavy sofas on the runway are also draped in pure white cotton, echoing the white curtain. Recently, Fendi appoints Kim Jones as the artistic director who will be in charge of women’s haute couture, ready-to-wear and fur collections. Silvia Venturini Fendi continues the responsibility of accessories and menswear collections. But Kim Jones remains the artistic director of menswear. It’s said that the A/W 2021 collection will be the first ready-to-wear collection of Kim Jones in Fendi.
Whites are warm and peaceful, revealing this series longs for natural tones during self-healing in home life. The puffa jacket emphasizes the warm tactility of white.
Blues are pure visually. They are positive and healing, more appealing in this environment. This season blues are gentle and elegant.
This season formal wear is blended with leisure and ease. Bright red is passionate, bright and dynamic. It is estimated to be a key color for modern elegant clothes.
The fashion show is focused on two themes, “Autumn and Winter Collections” and “Leisure Fashion Collections”, which create the collision between fashion trends and sportswear and cargo trends. The show demonstrates the determination of “IBL YEUNG” to pursue diversified and unique artistic styles. At the same time, Catherine Yeung is also a very thoughtful designer. That’s why her designs look amazing. Black and white are more fashionable, with a tribute to cargo trend, blending with modern fashion and traditional British style, attracting people from different fashion fields. In addition to cargo trend, elegant blue also frequently appeared in the series. The fabrics with good hand-feeling and unique embroidery instantly attracted the attention of the audience and fully reflected the intelligibility of fashion!
As the second haute couture fashion conference of “IBL YEUNG”, it not only attracted the attention of many fashion professionals in the industry, but also invited many entertainment celebrities including Renjun Wang, Lunshuo Zhang, and Yidi Hou to help out. In the more than one-hour fashion show, in order to let audiences deepening the experiences of design concepts and fashion elements of IBL YEUNG, hundreds of pigeons were placed in the show. Moreover, the models who are elegant and handsome were walking from the audience which fully demonstrated the true interpretation of “IBL YEUNG” that is “share with each other and express freely”.
The founder of “IBL YEUNG” brand, Chinese American Catherine Yeung, graduated from the University of California, Los Angeles. Catherine Yeung has never forgotten the memory of living in London as a child. The bustling London contains full of atmosphere of royal luxury and elegance. Also, London is a city that has strong artistic atmosphere which endows her works a colorful and beautiful tone, while Western historical connotation and unique art Style has also become a luxurious embellishment in her design. More importantly, Catherine Yeung pays more attention to the connotation of human nature, hoping to tell everyone through her design, “how to be the truest self”, while there is nothing wrong to show the fragility of oneself . With “IBL YEUNG” clothing fabrics, whether skirts that have large area of bright and pure color or suits that blend capable and colorful contradictions, the works show a blend of modern fashion sense and traditional British style. Also the designers combine retro and modern, gorgeous and practical, and fully indicate the intelligibility of fashion!
The truth is that “IBL YEUNG” has always been a free brand that refuses to be defined and labeled. Also, they do not set tags or definitions for their customers. Only those customers who can truly recognize the IBL YEUNG brand philosophy and have independent views and unique talents have opportunities to enjoy the perfect service from IBL YEUNG. They can provide advanced fashionistas with aristocratic haute couture experience, and they can also provide fashionable trendy clothing for young people.
“IBL YEUNG” believes that fashion is a responsibility that express one’s attitude and convey the art of love and beauty. Due to this fashion responsibility, ”IBL YEUNG” decided to hold the “2020 Autumn/Winter Collections Advanced Fashion Show” in Shanghai-the fashion capital of China-in order to deliver the knowledge of fashion, love and beauty.
“IBL YEUNG” believes that the Chinese market is young and dynamic. The young people here have independent thoughts and spirits, advocating freedom, paying attention to fashion, and pursuing advanced fashion art. Therefore, IBL YEUNG believes that it will be warmly welcomed in China.
Since entering the Chinese market last year, with its noble atmosphere and free fashion style, IBL YEUNG rapidly entered the hearts of many people with a unique style. Many celebrities have become loyal fans of “IBL YEUNG” and are welcomed by fashionistas. In just one year, “IBL YEUNG” has opened its second and third brand concept stores.
“IBL YEUNG” hopes that every brand concept store has its unique and special artistic style. They will launch more brand concept stores in the future, hoping to build IBL YEUNG into a fashion landmark, a base for trendy people to gather and sharing art fashion and life style.
In A/W 20/21 four fashion weeks, changes of plackets are deconstruction, layered splicing and color-blocking. Deconstruction and fringes are combined with color-blocking and double-layered string to make the placket adjustable. Subtle changes include the pearl button, diagonal placket, the unstitched design, geometric placket and so on.
In A/W 20/21 four fashion weeks, the bare neckline is combined with dresses or undershirts, which is the prominent feature. The arc cutting is the highlighted craft and creates many new details, such the water drop, spoon, heart, petal and crescent shape. And the linear cutting is also notable. Cape-like cutout and diagonal deep V-neck are quite tempting.
In A/W 20/21 four fashion weeks, the collar changes a lot. Low neck and the stand-collar are main features. Peter Pan Collar appears the most. The stand-collar is combined with lace, ruffle and metal chains to bring girlish sweetness for the collar. The collar is also spread to the shoulder, and becomes the big pointed collar. Soft materials like silk are added to bring a graceful feeling. The most eye-catching design is the 3D square collar. The regular notch lapel is attached under the stand collar, adding changes to the collar and creating a double-layered collar.
The four fashion weeks for A/W 20/21 have been affected by the outbreak of NCP to varying degrees. Chinese buyers, stars and media workers have cancelled their schedules. Giorgio Armani’s Milan show has changed to online launch. The theme of this Milan Fashion Week is also related to China: “CHINA, WE ARE WITH YOU”. For Paris Fashion Week, despite the schedule change, brands such as MASHAMA, Shiatzy Chen and Uma Wang have also cancelled the event. However, there are still many highlights and vibrancy. This report will analyze from stitches, splicing and decoration to carefully select crafts in the four fashion weeks to help with the development of women’s knitwear.
In the four fashion weeks, fine transfer stitches well sketch the breast and waist, becoming a highlight. The basic 1×1 rib changes along with lines, and replaces the princess seam and fishbone support in ready-to-wear. The textural space and the seamless comfortable touch conform to human curves and the skin.
Heavy-gauged textures emphasize the clear and bright stitch length and the concave-convex 3D effect, with the help of black, grey and camel to display the freedom and confidence of urban females. The 3.5 heavy-gauged stitches are thick and warm, suitable for autumn and winter.
Light and comfortable dress and the tight cardigan are suitable to be the inner in autumn and winter. Pointelle, kwise and purl stitches and tuck are combined variously to make the fabric more layered, which is the key design technique of this season.
This is Alessandro Michele’s fifth year at Gucci. Michele leads us to rethink the definition of masculinity through the nonlinear time travel to the moment of birth. Gucci jumps out of traditional concepts and rewrites the powerful male chauvinism. Without social restraints or power limits, boys are wearing Mary Jane shoes, stockings and skirts in bright colors and a well-fitting silhouette. Gucci breaks male rules and neutral beauty, showing diversified sides of men.
Gucci’s ambassador Kim Jong In (Kai), artist Maurizio Cattelan, rapper Tyler the Creator, musician Mark Ronson and actor Earl Cave all wear different styles to the Gucci A/W 20/21 menswear show.
Check is still an important element in this season. Gucci uses feminine and neutral designs to bring retro charm. Retro check set and fresh blue check fabric bring a lethargic and free feel, and display the retro and preppy charm.
Knitwear in this season is strongly retro. The hand-crocheted florals, loose cardigan and color-blocked knitwear all bring a romantic and retro feel to the simple silhouette.
XanderZhou is a personal brand created by Chinese designer Zhou Xiangyu. It newly interprets menswear through a unique perspective of visual art and outstanding tailoring. His diversified marketing philosophy has created a new business mode in China’s clothing industry. At London fashion week of menswear, Xander Zhou officially unveils the A/W 2020 collection named HOMO MULTIVERSALIS. In this season, the designer shows the unknown secret, the conjecture of hyperspace and the definition of existence. He constantly asks the other self in another dimension about the concept of multi-universe and homo multiversalis.
The 2020 autumn series of Xander Zhou is obsessed by futurism and quantum physics. This series is full of our confusion about the unknown, the conjecture of hyperspace and the definition of existence. Surprising looks are short outerwear with zigzag edges and colorful shirts splicing different colors. The most influential one is the clothing with pixelate print. The whole series tells an unsettling story about the being monitored and post-humanism.
The zigzag edge runs through the autumn and winter collection, with a wide range of items. Shirts, outerwear and puffa jackets interpret the philosophy through zigzag edges.
Prints of face mosaic depicted by AI announce their hyper-normality in large pixels. The clothing is like after-treatment, bringing a visual game.
In catwalks of S/S 2020, natural keynote and digital style are influencing colors of women’s leather and fur. In terms of middle tones and neutral colors, retro earth tones and green tones inspired by environmental protection and outdoor theme are outstanding. Black dominant in leather is added to create a rich and calm dark color palette which makes a contrast with fresh and bright colors.
Earth colors are versatile and enduring. In S/S 2020, earth colors come back to nature, and conform to the trend of delicacy and comfort. The S/S 2020 leather series of Fendi, Tod’s, and Ermanno Scervino all explore the exquisite charm of neutral colors in warm tones. Earth tones are suitable for well-fitting and loose voluminous silhouette.
Blue tones of S/S 2020 express human’s understanding of nature, enhance the simple silhouette, and add a dramatic sense to strongly glossy and solid leather fabrics. The bright and dynamic princess blue of Rochas becomes popular. The flowing gloss of Sportmax brings a sheen of universe to clothing, and displays female power in a calm way.
Green becomes one of the important colors of S/S 2020 leather. It is born with an outdoor sense. The tonal match of Givenchy is reflected by different materials. Givenchy has exquisite and ingenious decorations, new expressing way and the clam and restrained color tones. Neutral tones with different brightness form various color combinations of Lacoste. Soft sea bubble green and calm storm green are added to make a contrast in comfortable and functional fabric, showing the urban sporty sense.
Motorcycle jacket is simple but classic. Cool rivets, unique and exaggerated design and classic pocket cover lead the cool street fashion.
Sporty leather clothing declines a little in S/S 2020. But its loose style brings a casual and comfortable sense. Color blocks and strings in placement add vitality, and bring a cool and chipper feeling.
Agricultural activities inspire the design philosophy of Monse 2020 S/S. Designers, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim, add simplicity to its symbolic deconstruction style. The embroideries of flowers and plants in the tight sweater reveal a natural sense like the cover of gardening magazines. The asymmetrical scarf skirt made of cotton with wide stripes is like the table cloth and napkin with fresh fruits and vegetables, scissors and knives on it. The appearance in the splicing fabric or comfortable knitwear strengthens the relaxing and joyful picnic atmosphere and life flavor.
In the background of agricultural activities in 2020 S/S, Monse prints fresh fruits in the smooth applique which is really natural and fresh with the help of cotton and linen. Under the philosophy of “No usual path. Not wearing well.”, items are layered. Soft color tones and quietly elegant black tassels display a relaxing rural atmosphere.
Monse turns deconstruction into elegant and avant-garde. And it makes use of plain and pure handicraft style to weave flowers and plants. The rough hand stitch combines the warm volume, fully displaying the rural charm of this season.
The bold cutout and neat cutting form the avant-garde deconstruction of Monse. The frayed effect like being torn and worn along with the flying bow tie in irregular cutting depict a leisure rural life picture far away from the crowded world to experience the true life.
The letter slogans of Monse is scattered in a horizontal and vertical rule. And it lies in the opposite of the minimalist geometrics and numbers. The silhouette is exaggerated and avant-garde to form a casual lifestyle. Without needless artificial decorations and regulations, it displays a casual, free and romantic style unconsciously.
Monse is dedicated to make clothing layered and applies its symbolic twist better and younger. The cutting of sloping shoulder and the adjustable tabs leave some space for knitwear’s comfortable wearing experience and accentuate female soft body shape.
On April 18, 2019, Reem Acra came to China to hold the first show, which was organized by NORA REVE. This show includes the Thankyou Collection and 2019 haute couture collection. Some Chinese celebrities were invited to attend this show.
Veils are more important. Reem Acra’s classic floor-length veils are made of translucent sheers. They cover head and are tied at neck, dreamy and sacred.
Champagne, dusty pink and light blue are seen on this show, which are refreshing. The handmade details create a charming effect.
The minimal satin wedding dresses are more contemporary and directional. The neat lines and simple curves are appealing. Embroideries on satin are elegant and glamorous. The silver threads outlining flowers provide a understated and luxurious effect. The bowknots and suit silhouettes show a ritual and feminine mood.
The rigid florals liven up wedding dresses. The combination of sheers and florals is elegant and vibrant.
Reem Acra is very good at using luxurious fabrics and delicate trims and beads to design wedding dresses. Sequins are applied on dresses or across the chest, showing a unique flowing and rhythmic feel.
Girls in pink dresses, holding candles and flowers are eye- catching. Every dress is special with romance.