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As consumers pursue the improvement of life quality, delicacy and elegance become important. Sustainable fashion drives the exploration of exquisite and durable details to be a mainstream. Traditional handicrafts become an important form of clothing details. Delicacy and craftsmanship return back, and weaving will mix with femininity to create fashionable items.
In addition to press-pleating, dense or sparse pleating, or the direction of cutting creates 3D textures, enhances the visual impact, and brings the aesthetics of crafts.
In A/W 21/22, quilted fabrics of puffa jackets get thinner, which is a key trend. With the upgrade of materials, statement-making quilting detail shows unique charm. Irregular artistic stitches echo the orderly geometric cutting, with mixed materials and color-blocking for a new visual feel.
Fringe is a common way to add details, making the simple style more casual. And fringes get thinner and thinner, which is an evident trend and guides the direction of women’s leather and fur.
Every season, designers will splice different fabrics with novel designs to bring different visual effects and hand feelings. Compared with spliced structures, A/W 20/21 pays more attention to fabrics. Retro and luxurious velvet and corduroy make a contrast with sportswear fabrics or knitted fabrics. Fleece will be expressed by new fabrics. Splicing different materials adopts a wider range of fabrics, like denim, suede, wool and woven shirts.
With the return of the retro style, rough corduroy and shining velvet come back. They are spliced with other materials to weaken the retro feel. CROQUIS and Z Zegna splice materials like knitted sweatshirt fabric or water-proof sportswear fabric on plackets and sleeves to bring a luxurious touch and vision.
Splicing denim with check shirt brings a visual illusion. E.Tautz splices denim and cotton to add denim strips to the clothing, bringing a stripe-like effect. Greg Lauren deconstructs the splicing of different materials, and MINEDENIM splices casual trousers with denim waistband, quite statement-making.
The suit is synonymous with gentleman, elegance and taste. As fastidious styles become public focus, detail design is also noticed. The creative lining meets business men’s demands to cater to the young market. The finely made facing and lining make the suit superior. The functional inside pocket makes the lining more functional. The color-blocked pipping, panel and beaded edge are statement-making. Exquisite jacquard in the lining breaks the monotony and becomes the non-negligible detail in S/S 2021.
The most direct function of facing is to support the pocket and bear the weight of items in the pocket. Currently, there are various facing designs, with straight and arc facing dominant. The wide and narrow facing is fun. Panels and prick stitch are color-blocked, displaying the combination of modernity and convention. The overlocking of Zara starts from a brand-new perspective.
The half-lined suit is lightweight, breathable and crisp, suitable for spring and summer. The lining is mainly decorated by similar colors. There are various lining designs, such as the lining from hemline to sleeves, one fourth or three fourths half-lining in the back. Color-blocked lining is also prominent in recent seasons and will become an important design element in the next season. Leopard print, ombre and animal embroidery can also be used as new design points to open the young market of business leisure suits.
As knitwear gets more ready-to-wear and consumers increasingly pursue high-quality clothing, traditional embroidery gains more attention. In A/W 21/22, embroidery pays more attention to the color contrast with the knitwear body, different combined elements, the combination with other crafts and handmade embroidery effect, bringing a simple yet chic visual feeling.
Color-blocked letters, as well as integrating floral and stripe into letters are recommended. Machine embroidery can well control the pattern effect, displaying the combined multiple elements.
Fine hand-embroidery enriches the expression forms. Color-blocking on placement is exquisite. Hot florals as main patterns are mostly applied to the neckline, hemline and cuffs, making a sharp contrast with the knitwear body.
Emphasizing edges is a key design of knitwear. When yarns are turned into hand-made overlocking, color-blocking, asymmetric design and silhouette are emphasized. The rough visual impact displays the aesthetics of handicraft.
Craft and detail are of great importance in A/W 20/21. Compared with clothing silhouette, more designers convey their ingenious thoughts to cautious consumers through craft changes and creative details. Influenced by current trends, the market is more favorable to bold, eye-catching, individual, simple and versatile craft and detail. Rubbing, discharge print, digital all-over print, and combined crafts of offset print gradually enter into the public view.
Rubbing has a long history in China. It is a hand-made reproduction of a carved or stone-cut surface by covering the surface tightly with a piece of paper and rubbing in black or colored material. Now, a Berlin company, Raubdruckerin has done something creative. In more than 20 cities, they put dyestuff on manhole covers, fences and the rest public facilities, then directly cover them with clothes and even backpacks. The idea of printing the manhole covers on T-shirts came from Emma France Raff. A decade ago, as she traveled around the world, she discovered manhole covers were like unique business cards handed out by cities, which triggered her desire to leave the mark as a memorial.
Discharge print is breathable, visible but impalpable. But it can only be printed on pure cotton fabrics dyed by polymer reactive dyes which can be costly, rather than on light-colored fabrics (Watermark can be used as a substitution).
Variegated blurred patterns sweep catwalks for S/S 2019, and become hot currently. Each item has blurred color blocks, with a simple silhouette to be unique, and add commercial value to shirts and hooded sweatshirts in A/W 20/21. Illusive looks and blurred elements will be softer in A/W 20/21, fit for avant-garde young consumers. Besides, Alexander McQueen and Palm Angels use blurred patterns boldly.
Drawing inspiration from adults’ wear, kids’ knitwear in A/W 21/22 tends to use individual and fashionable crafts. Illustration-like Jacquard, tapes, tassels and colorful heavy-gauge work with placement destruction and voluminous cables to bring a direct fashionable visual effect.
Jacquard plays an important role in knitwear. Artistic hand-drawn patterns and cartoon images blend with 3D decorations or applique, quite popular.
Fun design and crossed string break the monotony of the solid knitwear. Orderly pointelle and concave-convex texture bring a layered sense to the style, with knot to be playful and eye-catching.
The minimalist aesthetics always occupies a certain space in the fashion world. This season women’s knitwear emphasize the appearance change and transfer stitches to create 3D sleeves. The appropriate space is free and easy for the body. Smooth lines are in line with human curves. Subtle changes of details display the fun of simplicity.
The one-piece sewing is the main expression of designs on sleeves. Buttons, long straps and contrasting overlocking create soft and natural sleeves. The simple and flowing visual effect is the direction of the new season.
The draping sleeves have layered crinkles. Compared with disorderly gatherings in previous seasons, the draping sleeves are more regular, with tensile stitch textures to leave some space for the arm.
A piece of spliced clothing that combines knitted and woven fabrics implies structure changes and secrets to diversified clothing collocation. It can bring a warm and skin-friendly wearing experience, fit for early autumn. The organic combination of ready-to-wear with knitwear will provide new inspirations for new season’s development. Compared with previous seasons, this season pays more attention to the direct splicing of materials, and uses inserting or sewing silhouette to integrate naturally.
Diversified clothing market is open and inclusive. Spliced materials make a contrast and form a unity, which is a key factor. For women’s knitwear, apart from splicing shoulder with front panel, splicing shoulder with the back panel also pursues the layered contrast brought by different materials. The structure change will enhance the inclusiveness of knitwear.
Splicing of knitted and woven fabrics tends to be integrated in the new season. Deconstruction is for wearing one piece of clothing in multiple ways. The most representative brand is Burberry. It integrates sleeveless shirt with cashmere cardigan through sewing the two hemlines, so the item can also be a dress, fit for multiple occasions.
Frozen is set in the fictional kingdom of Arendelle which is inspired by Norwegian spectacular natural scenery, including snow-capped mountains and tranquil fiords. In terms of characters’ costumes, the animation team also draws many inspirations from the unique architectures, culture and traditions of Norway.
As the snow queen, Elsa’s dress shows an ethereal and pure sense with the help of crystal clear snow. And sequins, beads and rhinestones are applied to the fabric to make the dress sparkling. And the pattern is mainly the snowflake. The hemline is equipped with plain geometric and linear patterns. While Anna’s dress tends to have a warm quality sense. The symmetric floral patterns and fringes are decorated in buttons. And color-blocked geometric patterns are added to cuffs and the neckline.
Elsa exudes infinite charm under the sky or in the snowfield. The posters show the most gripping scenes to arouse people’s curiosity about the story of Arendelle. Anna and Elsa will go deep into the mysterious magical forest to discover the truth about the source of Elsa’s magic, and the long-hidden secrets of the kingdom of Arendelle, a magical kingdom with elements of wind, fire water, and soil.
Under the changeable fashion, warm and soft cashmere refuses complicated utility, and adopts fine stitches and the superior texture of the cashmere to display the fashion charm of urban business style. The fine-gauged texture in the new season creates an orderly linear space, adding elegance and calmness to pre-fall.
In the new season, business leisure men’s knitwear insists on compact stitches and meticulous beauty. Different from basic ottoman stitches in the past, this season men’s knitwear pays more attention to crossed stitches and the dense gap between 12 stitches and 14 stitches. The orderly crossed stitches create a tensile spacial sense and bring a 3D impact. Black, white and grey tones bring simple and charming fashion items.
The structure of points, lines and plane is significant in men’s knitwear of urban business style. Unlike the previous seasons which adopt orderly points to create lines and patterns brought by crossed lines, the knitwear in the new season emphasizes the crossed planes more. The purl and kwise textures can imitate lines and gradually shape a geometric plane. The irregular contrast of planes has richer textures and comfortable touch than the flat jacquard.
Previous seasons adopt rough heavy-gauged cables, while in the new season, men’s knitwear of the urban business style uses simple lines to be modern. Compactness and fineness become the key to fine-gauge. Rhomboid checks are not restricted to graceful cables, and use neat straight lines to display the clear checks, reinterpreting modern classics and easily creating an elegant image of business men.
The combination of multiple stitches is a key craft to show the personalized business men’s knitwear. Fine-gauged cables are softer and more soothing when applied to cashmere. The stitch integrating purl, kwise and jacquard in a dotted line can create fine textures, with blue and green tones having moderate saturation to create a cultured and elegant image of business men.