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Guided by the genderless design, architectural and minimalist tailoring has become a trendy technique of designers. From irregular geometric shape to overlapped structure and accessories, the changes of placement details allow delicate structures to directly improve the clothing quality. This report will emphasize the detail craft of front fly.
Button tab front fly is highly practical. Buttons are sewn on the tab to fix the clothing and enrich the layers. The material conflict between tab and clothing can also strengthen the sense of design.
Mechanical structure is mainly presented in futuristic commuting style. Straightly-cut structures are layered to present a futuristic mechanical style.
Geometric front fly performs well in the market, which updates the design concept and presents the protective visual effect.
Outerwear is a key category of A/W knitwear. Sophistication style maintains the ready-to-wear appearance. Baseball jacket and puffa jacket will attract more attention. Heterogeneous splicing, heavy-gauged stitching and jacquard are still the most important crafts. Slight deconstruction design, moss stitching and float jacquard are also applied to present diversity. Drawstring and snap strengthen the functionality, and practicality will be the key developing direction of outerwear items in the new season.
With the rising influence brought by sport style, baseball collar has become an important collar element of knitted jacket. Pattern and texture design will be the key point of this new season. Geometric elements and brand logos are presented by stitching, jacquard and splicing. Stitching puts emphasis on the crisp and solid effect.
Hooded jacket accentuates the comfort of style. Heterogeneous splicing and pattern design are the two noteworthy design directions. Drawstrings are added to cuffs and hemline to strengthen the thermal function of knitted jacket.
Stand-collar jacket features heterogeneous splicing, variable collar length and fancy yarns(sequined yarn & color yarn) to accentuate the visual layers.
Color is always an important part of clothing, which can bring the most direct visual feel. The dynamic and dazzling color combination endows knitwear with youthful atmosphere. Romantic scenery, flower, colorful rhombus and trendy Scandi folk style are mainly chosen to be the patterns of knitwear. Besides, the technological fun brought by flowing liquid pattern is also noteworthy.
Scenery pattern with rich colors is extremely youthful. Remote countryside, mountain or industrial urban night scene are recommended. Intensive color blocking may further strengthen the vitality.
The romantic curves of floral patterns provide men’s knitwear with softness. Fresh lemon yellow is recommended. Steady dark red and sapphire or even classic black & white are also available.
Scandi folk style pattern is combined with color conflict to increase the youthful feel of men’s knitwear. Lovely bear and bright red maple leaf can also be added to enliven the whole style.
Collar crafts is always the soul of menswear, which can determine the style. With the updating craft in the market, the detail design of collar is no more limited by the tradition and multiple crafts are used to evolve the classic. Pointed collar brings personalized and delicate highlights to the menswear design. Multi-layer collar enriches the structure. And the interesting square shape has already become the most trendy detail in this season. Classic round collar is rebuilt by deconstruction, which maintains the classic. Notably, more and more special-shaped collars have shown in the market, providing more choices for personalized consumers.
Once popular pointed collar reinterprets men’s craft design in a brand new posture. The sharpness, length and width of pointed collar are all the important factors, which may bring more personalized and delicate designs. Different materials can be used to beatify men’s neck lines and face lines.
Double-layered craft design was once a big hit in the market. And the mock-layered structure of this season is more delicate and ingenious. The layering and splicing of collar features provide cross-seasonal styles with rich visual effect. And with the development of craft, even totally different collars can be perfectly fused. Creative design and evolved classic are both the main collar crafts in this season.
The design of square collar presents the intensive modern playfulness, and such collar type can also decorate wearers’ shoulder and face. Different widths of collar directly affect of visual feel. Wider collar better decorates the linear feel and presents individuality. However, narrower collar is more delicate. Except for the common application on men’s jacket and outerwear, it can be applied on knitwear as well. Different materials provide square collar with unique styles.
The young women’s knitwear of S/S 2021 Chengdu market pays attention to the pattern design. Fruit, flower, cartoon IP, letter and color-blocking stripe & area are the popular pattern elements. Bright color is the key point. Besides, crafts are combined to present patterns. Jacquard, stitching and beading, embroidery, rhinestone, crochet and printing are fused to produce rich and vivid patterns. More variable techniques can even reveal the dimensional effect.
Fruit element fits summer the most. And the application of this element of Chengdu market pays attention to the heavy-industrial technique. Sequins and beads are decorated on jacquard patterns. Lustrous patterns show textural contrast with knitwear and form visual layers.
Jacquard and crochet flower patterns are presented with fine-gauged stitching. The combination of flower and letters is a more novel type of presentation.
The cartoon characters of Chengdu women’s knitwear market put emphasis on the liveliness and playfulness. Patterns are enlarged on the front part. Jacquard is combined with towel embroidery, and embroidery is combined with beading to present patterns with more depth. Single crafts like rhinestone, foam printing and applique can also be used to show 3D images, which have weaker visual layered feel than the former design.
With the development of Chinese fashion and the rise of buyer industry, Showroom has become well-known. Fashion week has the functions to display and release without providing any ordering services. And the emergence of Showroom helps designer brand to solve the ordering problem, and promotes the development of designer brands and fashion industry. A/W 21/22 Showroom is more professional and delicate than the traditional showcase, except for all the elements the traditional ones have, Showroom knows more about the requirement of buyers and the styles of goods. Professional Showroom attracts medias, bloggers and buyers through its more accurate market positioning and individualized display. Showroom also provides interaction opportunity to fashion buyers and designers. Buyers can have a close look of designs or even touch the fabric, directly feeling the tailoring and details. Showroom Shanghai includes MODE, OntimeShow, TUDDO, DFO, ALTER, Not and TUBE.
Showroom Shanghai 2021 A/W Exhibition (the 16th exhibition of Showroom) will be held on the Shanghai Exhibition Center (No.1000, Middle Yan’an Road) ,2nd Floor (Central Hall,East&West Platform Hall) from April 9th to 12th, 2021. Founded in the spring of 2014, although the country has seen vigorous development within the field of independent fashion design for a decade now, showrooms continued to remain a blank page. Fashion Week’s official organizers have previously focused on the showcase and issue of products without providing any ordering services. The emergence of Showroom Shanghai was able to fill the gap, bringing a positive and significant improvement to the industrial chain and professionalizing the Chinese fashion industry, allowing it to take one step further into the international market.
As the only official trade show for Shanghai Fashion Week, MODE Shanghai Fashion Trade Show is committed to the improvement of fashion industry and to meeting the needs of domestic fashion retail market. Featuring highly efficient service, rich resources and a full range of media channels, Mode Shanghai aims to be an optimized business platform for buyers and fashion business insiders, providing a brand new exhibition experience for all. A/W 2021 MODE was held in Shanghaimart during April 8 to 11,2021. And there were about 300 exhibitors, 71% Chinese brands, 29% foreign brands, 76% womenswear, 29% unisex, 24% accessory and 4.6% lifestyle.
With the popularity of Chinese fashion, Showroom gathers many outstanding independent designer brands for promotion. Seizing Chinese market is the public secret to get progress in this changing fashion industry, and the valuable commercialized brands are the key. The following brands are the noteworthy Chinese designer brands currently. Shutingqiu, Yueqiqi, SusanFang, HAIZHENWANG and Chrisou by Dan are also the prospective commercialized brands.
To the fashion industry, 2021 is a year with both challenges and new opportunities. During the process of digitalization and intellectualization, the coronavirus epidemic actually becomes the catalyst of industry revolution which speeds up the development of trend. Consumers’ behaviour has changed, and their requirements are continuously updating. And the unprecedent changes rapidly become the new normality. In 2021, digital consumption will keep dominating and growing. And we should grasp this key opportunity to help enterprises to have insight into requirement changes and to strengthen their relationship with consumers.
In the past few years, China’s rapidly growing economic strength, consumption culture and population structure is leading to the eastward gravity of global fashion industry. China has been the first country to hit the plateau in this post-epidemic era, consumers are keeping desensitizing to the epidemic fluctuation. And the whole consumption trend and confidence index start to get better in the third quarter. The expense of Chinese consumers is continuously rising, and because of the expansion of middle class, China still has a large contribution space to the fashion industry.
Embrace Gen Z
Along with the quietly changing global population structure, the young Gen Z has been the focused crowd in this new era. Every aspect of the society is keeping up with the growth of Gen Z, so the commercial opportunities are emerging around these young people. As being aborigines of the digital networks, the life styles of Gen Z cause qualitative changes because of the technological revolution. They have a more independent character, pay more attention to their life experiences and own better understanding of searching for the best value and service. There are 260 million of Gen Z in China. Although half of them are students, their contribution to fashion consumption is in a yearly 3.5%-4.5% growth for the better family economic foundation.
Based on the era background of digital marketing, we need to take advantage of the social and sharing Gen Z to create a trend, and let the public follow this trend. The cultural circle of hobbies and their pursuit of diversity and individuality can be the cutting point of design. Those entry luxury niche brands, which have stories, craftsmanship, texture and also recognition, might be their future consumption trend.
Focus on Sustainability
The coronavirus epidemic improves consumers’ consciousness of health, environment and social responsibility. More and more consumers would have moral anxiety after the consumption, they are afraid of causing negative effect to the environment and society, then their guilty and shame would emerge. According to the samples of R.I.S.E sustainable fashion lab this year, including 2251 consumers and 20 brands, 84% of consumers have a high cognition of environmental sustainability, and 90% of these high-cognitive people express that the producers of fashion industry should make the environmental influence public during the producing process, and they are willing to learn the contribution which fashion industry has made in social responsibility.
The expansion of sustainable market needs the mutual support and promotion between consumers and producers. On one hand, we need to guide consumers to pay for the sustainability. And on the other hand, innovative designs can increase and popularize sustainable products. Besides, improving the recycling rate is the main direction of new commercial mode, and also the key direction of brands, designers and enterprises. Brands all over the world have launched their eco-friendly series products, such as the H&M Conscious Exclusive series, and Reclothing Bank’s “Basic” series, “Ready To Wear” series and “Haute Couture” series.
New Luxury Generation
The global luxury market is damaged by the epidemic in 2020. However, China has been the first to revive, about a 20%-30% growth in 2020. And China will soon occupy half of the global volume in luxury consumption. The younger consuming trend is obvious in the current stage, about 90% of consumers are likely to accept local luxuries, and the new luxury generation among 18-35 years old will contribute a 69% improvement in the coming future. With the all-over penetration of mobile internet, Chinese users are experiencing changes among information channels, content carrying mode and shopping locations. The whole channels of luxuries have been initially emerged.
The epidemic rebuilt users’ shopping habit in a rising trend. Since offline consumption is the main channel of luxury brands, they need to speed up their cooperation with online retailers and social medias. The combined online and offline marketing can create an immersive artistic interaction, and the application of films and pop-up stores can lively spread the brand value and break the border. The localized design better fits the younger consumers. Dior Men 2021 Autumn Series held the first online show in Beijing. Kim Jones and Kenny Scharf perfectly integrated graffiti Chinese elements into this season’s new products.
Anta Chao Nest shoes were unveiled in Xintiandi, Shanghai on December 6, 2020. As a leading brand in the China sporting goods industry, Anta continues to innovate, and for the first time teamed up with internationally renowned footwear designer SALEHE BEMBURY to create a new topic of symbiosis with sports vitality and nature-Anta nest shoes. Nest shoes run through the city life inspired by nature. The pioneering concept encourages young people to embrace nature, gain new inspiration and life force outdoors, and lead the innovative urban outdoor trend. Anta has created a pair of world-class influential nest shoe, bringing innovative co-branding and trendy products belonging to young people, and injecting continuous innovation vitality into the brand.
Pioneer concept inspired by nature to activate the vitality of the city
SALEHE BEMBURY personally designed this joint series. When talking about the design inspiration of Anta nest shoes, the designer said that he accidentally captured a photo of a bird breaking its shell in the nest. This momentary action and color inspired his creative inspiration. The “nest” structure deservedly became the main design of this product, and it has attracted attention on social platforms at home and abroad before the official release. What’s more worth mentioning is that the “nest” structure, as the finishing touch of this product design, not only achieves its unique visual appearance, but also brings a nest-level stable wearing experience.
“Nest” structure is the finishing touch to the design of Anta’s nest shoes
Outdoor sports and hiking are highly respected lifestyles by SALEHE BEMBURY. In this co-brand cooperation, Anta uses “Nature is nest” as its creative highlight, directly hitting the points of contemporary urban consumers and awakening their inner desire for nature. Anta takes this as an opportunity to explore the proposition of the balance and integration of the city and nature-urban life is hustle and bustle. Nature can inspire unlimited inspiration and vitality. Starting from this moment, starting from nature, we will implement the sports spirit in all aspects of urban life and lead the innovative urban outdoor trend.
Anta Nest Shoes Portuguese Leaf Green Color Inspired by Nature
In addition to conceptual innovation, Anta also incorporates natural elements into technology. The one-piece knitted mesh fabric is soft and fits like the surrounding nature. With the ANTA NEST nest-shaped stable structure and non-slip rubber outsole, the structure is nest-level stable and nest-level comfortable performance. As the designer said, “The strength of the branch itself is very weak, but the moment it is woven and condensed into a nest, it gains infinite power.” Nest shoes not only have a natural and flexible design, but also wrapped comfortably in 360-degree. It can also be worn at outdoor scenes. The nest shoelace gives consumers not only the desire for nature, but also allows consumers to wear nature under their feet, no longer confined to the narrow space between steel and concrete.
Bright design sweeps the world, leading a new sporty style
With the successive exposure of ANTA and SALEHE BEMBURY cooperation shoes, the natural color scheme and avant-garde design style have aroused the attention and expectations of the whole network. After reported by well-known trend media at home and abroad, such as HYPEBEAST, ULSUM and NOWRE, the attention and praise continued to soar.
(Netflex popular drama actress Diane Guerrero uses Monroe pink nest shoes to create an urban outdoor look)
Nest shoes are also very popular among celebrities and KOLs, such as American actress and writer Diane Guerrero, the Streetwear Model & IG Goddess Adrianne ho, etc, all have used the sports fashion styles created by nest shoes to share their own matching experience.
Nest shoes creative setting
Embrace young consumer groups to create industry-leading products
The Nest shoes presented by ANTA and SALEHE BEMBURY this time are an update of young people’s urban life based on natural outdoor inspiration. It is an all-round improvement of natural concepts. The design inspiration comes from the bird’s nest in nature, and ANTA and SALEHE BEMBURY use the return of Natural design concepts and unique nest-shaped design to create a new trend for sports brands. It shows the balance between man and nature, city and nature. The new generation of young consumers not only pay attention to the functionality of products, but also pay attention to the output of brand values, and pursue individual expression and spiritual resonance. And this time Anta attacked with the concept of experiencing nature in the city, advocating the new trend of urban outdoor, which is bound to bring new surprises to young people.
The advent of Nest Shoes greatly empowers Anta’s brand power and product power, and strengthens consumers’ recognition of the Anta brand. As an indispensable backbone in the sports circle, Anta has always been committed to embracing young people, injecting vitality into the brand through continuous innovation, and creating innovative co-brand projects and trendy products for young people.
Condé Nast China’s fashion industry media Vogue Business in China released the 2020 “New Fashion Capital Index Report” on November 21. The report provides practitioners with a reference for the ranking of China’s new generation fashion city index through the professional perspective of the fashion industry. This report firstly authoritative released this year, and a release summit was held in Chengdu.
The report aims to redefine the “fashion power” of Chinese cities from a new perspective, depicting the fashion landscape of China’s new generation of cities except Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou and Shenzhen, and provide a strong reference for industry practitioners to formulate future business development strategies.
This must-read “New Fashion Capital Index Report” was developed by Vogue Business in China and the world-renowned consulting firm EY-Parthenon. Through months of polishing the dimension setting and data calculation method, according to ” The five first-level dimensions of “fashion consumption strength”, “fashion business potential”, “fashion cultural charm”, “fashion innovation talents” and “fashion development ability” are important dimensions to conduct in-depth desk research and data analysis* for Chengdu, Chongqing, Xi’an, Shenyang, Hangzhou, Wuhan, Nanjing etc. (Twelve Chinese cities including Changsha, Xiamen, Tianjin, Qingdao, and Dalian).. In the end, Chengdu, Hangzhou and Chongqing’s composite index ranked top three in 2020. The report will be updated and released every year, continuously optimizing the index system and algorithm, and strive to become an authoritative report on urban research in the fashion industry.
Bao Yimin, the editorial director of Vogue Business in China, said: “In the past ten years, most fashion brands have captured the four major consumer cities, Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou and Shenzhen’. In order to get ready for the next step of expansion, you must truly understand China as a vast, densely populated, culturally diverse and complex market. Therefore, Vogue Business in China focuses this report on cities other than Beijing Shanghai, Guangzhou and Shenzhen’ to help brands understand the next echelon better, cities that also have strong consumption power and fashion potential.”
The 2020 “New Fashion Capital Index Report” launch summit is one of the most important events for Vogue Business in China in the past one year since it entered China. The event was held in the memory of the eastern suburbs of Chenghua District, Chengdu. The summit was hosted by Mr. Bao Yimin, the editorial director of Vogue Business in China, and discussed with industry experts, business and cultural leaders how the city can achieve new breakthroughs and usher in important development opportunities for the fashion industry. The event also deeply explored the diverse charms of Chengdu as the number one city in this report index, and what it is worth learning from.
The rules and difficulty of the game in the Chinese market are quietly changing. It is unrealistic for any brand or company to wish to maintain the status quo to maintain development. We believe that the changes in the Chinese fashion market in the next 10 years will be completely different from the situation in the previous 10 years, which also means that practitioners must have a new mindset, vision, pattern and strategic thinking to deepen the Chinese market.
This report focuses on ZARA, H&M and Urban Revivo. This season collaborative IP patterns frequently appear. Urban leisure style becomes the main style in early autumn. Breathable cotton and linen as well as natural silk remain key fabrics. The dress is the most popular item. Shirring still holds a large share.
1. Zara selects Mica Arganaraz for its A/W advertising campaign. 2. The collaboration collection of H&M and Giuliva Heritage is on sale on 3 September. Its minimalist style resembles Jil Sander. 3. H&M joins hands with Justin Bieber for a street collection. 4. H&M teams up with Lebanese designer Sandra Mansour for a co-branded series. Liu Wen leads the summer styling.
Dresses, trousers and tops hold the highest percentage. Outerwear shows an obvious growth, followed by skirts and vests. Cartoon images, daily casual items and blazers dominate. As for silhouettes, casual loose shapes are main. Wide-shoulder design is employed. Vests and other tops also increase.
Giuliva Heritage is founded in 2017 by a couple, Gerardo Cavaliere and Margherita Cardelli. Margherita always borrows clothes from her husband’s wardrobe, and later they reinterprets womenswear with menswear outlines. The brand is famous for its neutral and modern lines, as well as nonchalant yet tasteful items.